Hello Robert,
you really keep the cyl.-head happy, if you fit a new nose-piece with a
water-pump, especially on a blown engine.
THE MONTLHERY GARAGE in England has the needed parts mostly in stock. Fax
0044-1458-850972
Concerning replacing the Triumph con-rods, make first sure, if your new
crankshaft was not made just only for the radii of the Triumph
shell-bearings !
Merry x-mas from the Black-Forest, Gerhard
-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net]Im
Auftrag von Robert Grunau
Gesendet: Sonntag, 23. Dezember 2001 21:50
An: TATERRY@aol.com; mg-mmm@autox.team.net
Betreff: J2 Xmas Presents
Yesterday I received my Christmas presents for the J2. Two new black leather
upholstered bucket seats, full supercharger installation for the J2,
including Marshall A75 rebuilt blower, J3 chromed exhaust manifold, muffler
and fish-tail, aluminum blower nose covering, various brackets, oilers,
cables etc.
I also have a new reproduction J2 block, new 1 5/8" counterbalanced
crankshaft, new Triumph aluminum rods and bearings.
Now my J2 ( J-3017 ) is not quite running, maybe by late spring. It has the
original engine, sleeved to standard block, new MG CC counter balanced crank
with 1 1/2" journals and babbit rods with 1/4" BSF rod bolts and floating
top end. The engine is supposedly rebuilt by previous owner.
I also have a complete J2 engine and gearbox left over from a Sprite
installation on a different car ( NO, I did'nt do it!! ) , so have all the
miscellaneous parts to complete an original J2 engine as well as the major
parts for a new engine.
Now my dilemma:
1-Is it safe to run the original engine with 1/4" rod bolts ( they are
TINY! ).
2-Assuming I put together a new engine using the new block, crank, rods, and
Marshall blower, should I buy a new J4 type nose piece to allow use of a
water pump? My friends J2 always overheated. Buying a new nose piece keeps
the extra J2 engine intact.
3-How much has to be removed from the block bore sides to clear the Triumph
aluminum rods?
4-Are the Triumph rods good?
5-Any other rods that are better than fat aluminum Triumph that seem to
require a lot of meat taken out of the block?
Whew, bunch of tough questions but I would appreciate any input.
I have never rebuilt a J2 or MMM engine. I do have a lot of experience on
XPAG engines and am prepared to learn the J2.
Best regards and Happy Holidays from Canada.
Bob Grunau
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of TATERRY@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2001 4:23 PM
To: mg-mmm@autox.team.net
Cc: THEBREED@bigpond.com
Subject: fit ups
Gents, may I interupt your Holiday Schnaps a moment to ask a few questions?
I'm trail fitting the dizzy, h2o pump and oil pump to the engine nose piece(
what do we call that casting?). I've never done this before, so please bear
with me.
1. When I tighten up the oil pump and dizzy ( without gaskets) they bind.
Since their shaft extentions nestle inside one another, their has to be some
freeplay, but I fear not on my set up....am I missing something?
2. My water pump was overhauled by Pip and his guy in Oz (beautifully I
might add) and was returned sans gear and hole for roll pin but with slot
for
key. I have my old gear but must drill the hole. How much of gap between
the housing and gear should I leave?
Also, does the gear tend to pull the impellor shaft downward? If I push up
on it and turn, Tantau's fancy impellor hits the top of the pump casting.
3. I have no shims for the dynamo, could someone suggest how many and what
size I'll need to set it up properly.......??
I'm sure I'll more questions as I try to puzzle this thing out.....
Happy Holidays
Terry
British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
MMM list subscription info: http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
MMM list subscription info: http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
MMM list subscription info: http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
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