Hi Bob,
Here are a few of MY opinions...
> 1-Is it safe to run the original engine with 1/4" rod bolts ( they are
> TINY! ).
Are you going to rev this thing like a race car or use it for Sunday afternoon
pic-a-niks? J2s look fine with the little wicker basket on the stern.
> 2-Assuming I put together a new engine using the new block, crank, rods, and
> Marshall blower, should I buy a new J4 type nose piece to allow use of a
> water pump? My friends J2 always overheated. Buying a new nose piece keeps
> the extra J2 engine intact.
I like the new front housings with extra water pump drive. I have a brand new
one that I may not use because I'm using the new small electric water pump
instead. I think it's a good idea to help push the thermo water system around
here in North America. Since you're asking for opinions, here's one: Put
together the new block, front housing, crank, rods, pistons, better cam, etc
and DRIVE THE HELL OUT OF IT. And smile.
And don't forget a 4-star diff, new half shafts, 4 new hubs, all new bearings.
With the new engine it will rev happily at 6,000+. Will you be wondering about
1/4" rod bolts at that rpm?
> 3-How much has to be removed from the block bore sides to clear the Triumph
> aluminum rods?
> 4-Are the Triumph rods good?
Here again, are you gonig to REV this engine? I'd use either Corrillo or
Phoenix rods.
> 5-Any other rods that are better than fat aluminum Triumph that seem to
> require a lot of meat taken out of the block?
Any good new rod will require lightening the bores!
BTW, Craig Peck near Cleveland is looking for any J2 running gear (engine,
g'box,etc) to go in his chassis. Needs front engine mounting chassis crossbar,
too
Merry Christmas. tommm.
British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
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