Terry,
See inline:
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of TATERRY@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2001 2:23 PM
To: mg-mmm@autox.team.net
Cc: THEBREED@bigpond.com
Subject: fit ups
Gents, may I interupt your Holiday Schnaps a moment to ask a few
questions?
I'm trail fitting the dizzy, h2o pump and oil pump to the engine nose
piece(
what do we call that casting?). I've never done this before, so please
bear
with me.
I call it a "nose piece". Fancy that!
======================================
1. When I tighten up the oil pump and dizzy ( without gaskets) they
bind.
Since their shaft extentions nestle inside one another, their has to be
some
freeplay, but I fear not on my set up....am I missing something?
There is only the slightest hint of free play on my PB. Any binding
would seem most likely to originate from misaligned shafts not turning
on the same axis. But for the life of me I can't think of why.
I don't think I have any gasket on the dizzy, and the gasket between the
oil pump and the block should be a real thin one (like grocery bag
paper).
======================================
2. My water pump was overhauled by Pip and his guy in Oz (beautifully I
might add) and was returned sans gear and hole for roll pin but with
slot for
key. I have my old gear but must drill the hole. How much of gap
between
the housing and gear should I leave?
Only enough so that the shaft doesn't ride up, but enough that the drive
gear doesn't bind.
Also, does the gear tend to pull the impellor shaft downward? If I push
up
on it and turn, Tantau's fancy impellor hits the top of the pump
casting.
I would doubt that it would to any significant degree. Again, set the
drive gear such that there is only maybe .005" vertical free play.
==================
3. I have no shims for the dynamo, could someone suggest how many and
what
size I'll need to set it up properly.......??
Here, I come into my own, as I have spent years trying to get my J2
right. There are two places where you can shim. The objective is to
achieve a whisper of backlash. Enough that you can barely hear a click
between the bevel gears when the dynamo shaft is rotated. The first
place is beneath the dynamo on the top of the nose piece. Add shims here
to increase the backlash. If the backlash is excessive, add shims behind
the bevel gear on the crank. I usually cut these shims out of .001",
.002", .005", or .010" brass shim stock (hobby supply) depending on what
is required. It's easiest if you play with the backlash while adjusting
the dynamo up or down on 2 - 3 sets of feeler gauges. Then when is seems
right, you'll immediately know what shim thicknesses you need to cut. Be
sure the vertical drive pinion is dead center on the dynamo shaft
(there's several write-ups in recent MMM Yearbooks), otherwise you have
an oil-cooled dynamo.
Bob Rich and others are probably more expert on 6-cylinder models than
I, but I've had my J2 and PB apart so many times, I think I've got those
down. Call or write if you have more questions.
Regards and Happy Holidays!
Lew Palmer
I'm sure I'll more questions as I try to puzzle this thing out.....
Happy Holidays
Terry
British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
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British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
MMM list subscription info: http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
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