Joe---There is a taper in the clutch shaft bore to match the taper of
the fork pin. It's difficult to eyeball the bore in this shaft to know
how much it has ovaled. I have found that one can get a good idea, by
painting the pin with a marking pen, and pressing it sraight down into
the shaft's bore. Don't twist the pin when inserting it. Pull the pin
out and observe where the ink has been scratched off. This will give you
idea how much wear has occurred on the forward side of the bore.
A shaft bore that has worn will not support a new pin, causing it to
flex and encourage a break.
So far as the two fork pins pressed into the fork tines, a flatness on
them isn't critical. The hydraulics of the clutch system adjusts for
such wear by positioning the piston in the slave cylinder. However,
these pins can be rotated 120 deg. or so, so a new front surface then
contacts the bearing carrier. Clamping a pair of ViseGrips on them will
do the turning trick.
Credit charges that do not include a company whose last name is
.."Secret" can't be too bad!
Dick
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