Welding is overkill and unnecessary; add the 1/4" bolt and pre-drill a
small 1/8" hole opposite the taper pin. You'll never need this though
since the additional bolt will prevent it ever breaking again. AND you
can remove the cross-shaft without a Sawzall.
R. Ashford Little II
www.geocities.com/ralittle2
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Irv Korey
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2003 11:24 PM
To: Lizirbydavis@cs.com; ianp@nait.ab.ca
Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: clutch fork question
At 06:47 PM 2/18/03 -0500, Lizirbydavis@cs.com wrote:
>I've considered welding the fork to the shaft. I too have heard that
this
>is not such a great thing to do. I can't imagine why. Obviously it
would be
>permanent, and the shaft would have to be removed with a hack saw.
I've
>gotten pretty good at this lately. Of the three trannys that I have in
the
>garage, ALL THREE had sheared off. This makes it impossible to remove
the
>shaft/fork assembly without the saw treatment. As shafts only cost
around
>$25.00, whats wrong with the weld job? Any comments?
Others have mentioned that you can drill another hole in the shaft at a
90
degree angle to the fork pin and run a bolt through there. This truly
works, even in racing conditions. Why bodge up the works by welding them
together when there is such a simple, cheap, and effective fix?
By the way, there is also a fairly simple technique for removing the
broken
bit of pin from the assembly so that you don't have to hack the shaft.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
63 TR4 VSCDA Group 2 #58
Highland Park, IL
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