In addition to Malcolm's advice, according to Charles Williams in "Tuning
your British Sports Car" 1972; Girling recommends a unique method of
pedal action for bleeding the CV type master cylinder (The L-shaped one
which I think most of us have). This method employs the hose from the
bleed nipple into a jar containing brake fluid.
"They suggest you do a sort of 'cha-cha-cha' on the pedal, first pushing it
down hard to the floor and following this with three short rapid strokes, after
which the foot is slid off the pedal so it can slip back to its stop before you
start the process again. The quick action dislodges any air bubbles which
may form around the return spring for the master cylinder."
Hope this helps
Andy
>On Fri, 1 May 1998, Alan Camhi wrote:
>
>> P.S. I did not bench bleed the M/C but pumped enough fluid through it
during the normal brake bleeding process to have removed the need tfor
the bench bleeding
>
>I think you have a bubble trapped somewhere. Does the pedal harden up
>after you pump it a lot?
>
>(If not, then try adjusting the rear brakes)
>
>If so, there IS air in there somewhere. 2 things to do:
>
>1. wrap a rag around each fitting, pressurize system, open the flare nut
>a wee bit until you see fluid leak out. Close, wipe off and proceed to
>next fitting.
>
>2. "Slow Bleed" by pumping up the system and bracing the pedal *down*
(ie,
>foot always on it) with a hunk of lumber. Let it sit overnight, check
>again in the morning.
>
>#2 is a previous list suggestion. It worked fairly good for me.
>
>>
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