> I know that I have not really thought all that hard about it.. but..
>Why would I want to o-ring the block?? It seemed to me that the U-20 was
>overbuilt enough that you would not need to do any strengthening?? Don't
>most people consider 10psi pretty minimal boost??.
> Why the forged pistons and custom rods?? Good condition stock
>pieces not up to it??
Even at 10 PSI I'd o-ring the block, and combine the 10 PSI with the
stock static CR and you'd be pushing it quite a bit. That's where the
custom forged pistons for a lower that original CR would come in. Then
you'd need a customized ignition setup, preferably with knock sensors to
retard the timing when needed.
After you got this motor together you'd probably start breaking thing
such as universal joints, maybe motor and trans mounts. Maybe even trans
and rear end pieces. Any time you very far beyond stock power levels
other power train bits start breaking if you don't reinforce them, too.
> Hmm I will have to chekc into this somemore.. maybe even get up
>outta my arm chair...I could maybe swing 2000ish..... but 8000 no way
Spend the $2K on a second roadster for Irene and it'll probably be a
better investment both short and long term. I'll see if I can't find
Mark's email so you can contact him directly to get an idea of what this
sort of thing costs. The '99 version was a complete reengineer from the
'98 version which used a draw through Weber DCOE (with a gold plated jet
cover!) tucked into the front corner of the engine compartment. The new
setup also includes the Electromotive crankfire ignition system which is
fully programmable and dead on stable from around DC to the speed of
light.<G>
I could be estimating way high, but I honestly don't think so. A good
near stock rebuild with maybe a mild cam and blue printing would probably
eat up $2K or more. Other's opinions may vary.
Later,
Ron
Ronnie Day
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Dallas/Ft. Worth
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'71 510 2-dr (Prepared Class Autocrosser)
'73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)
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