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RE: Clutch not releasing

To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Clutch not releasing
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2005 09:30:15 -0800
> I tried adjusting the slave pushrod to it's maximum length,

And was there still free play in the slave linkage at that point ?  That's a
classic symptom of the dreaded broken taper pin.

> 1. If I disconnect the slave pushrod and push the lever as far back as I
> can by hand, should that release the clutch?

Nope.  In fact, that should be just about the correct released position, plus
only maybe 1/32" of free play.

> (It doesn't). If not, how
> much force should it take to move it further?

I don't have Nelson's measurements at hand, but it's well over 100 pounds of
force at the point where the pushrod attaches.  You'd need a cheater bar to
release the clutch by hand, I've done it with a 15" adjustable wrench.  A length
of 1" water pipe would probably work, too.

> 3. What is the normal position for the slave piston when the pedal is
> up? Would it be all the ways in as far as it can go, or only partially?
> Should this adjust itself during bleeding?

On a TR3A, the return spring should always bottom the slave piston in it's bore.
Bleeding should have no effect on this.  The return spring was deleted on later
TR models so they work differently, but it should be present on all TR2-4.
(Don't remember offhand if the 4A had the self-adjusting clutch or not, but I'm
pretty sure the TR5/250 did.)

Randall


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