271(tm) is obsolete, according to the "Loctite User's Guide" I got at the bearing shop while picking up bearings for my airplane's nose gear. 262 replaces it. They recommend Primer N first, and to u
No kidding! BTW, "da book" recommends that to disassemble high strength threadlocakers, heating to 450 degrees F for 5 minutes and disassembling while hot should do the trick. --berry Berry Kercheva
... And do like the racers do: install a loop of steel around the ends of the propshaft to catch it if it breaks again. I think some organisations require this. --berry Berry Kercheval :: Xerox Palo
But before you weld them, be sure to stop and think "Can I still get this puppy apart?" if the answer is yes, go ahead. If it's no, either put the loops somewhere else or *bolt* them in. (It may be
-- Forwarded Message A copy of your message is being returned to you because one or more of the addresses you specified could not be recognized as addresses that are understood by, or reachable from,
I've just been on the phone to Filoli and Scott, and there are two things y'all should be aware of: the correct number for FLOWER SHOW tickets is 415 366 4640. THe number above is for "regular" tick
Well, at least he drives it. After reading in Popular Classics, Classic Cars and so on about laborious restorations on cars that always start "There was a lot of rot in the body..." and pictures of
Front wheel studs are p/n 114281 for wire wheels, 114282 for disc wheels Rear wheel studs are p/n 142799 for wire wheels, 132317 for disc wheels I'll be hornswoggled. I didn't know they were differe
Yep. Sybil used to do this all the time, even after I'd replaced the cardboard shroud. (Cf. the recent "emabarassing ways to injure yourself" thread wherein I burned myself opening her hot radiator.
Every spring I pop the hood on Sybil, my TR6, make sure the heater valve is closed ALL THE WAY and then I don't touch the heater control until winter. I don't need the defogger, even on cold summer
OK, once a while ago I asked how to get TR6 seat rails *apart*; now I need to know how to get them *out*. I am finally in the middle of reupholstering the seats and recarpeting Sybil. The driver's si
In LBC terms it goes something like this: The glovebox light is out, I'll just replace the bulb, but look, the contacts are a bit corroded, so I better put in a new socket. To do that I have to pull
I'm with Chris. I own a Triumph, and I love it, but I also like other makes of LBCs. I *like* hearing about MGs, and Austins, and Lotuses, and Morrises, and Ford Anglias and so on. Often I learn som
Anyone know a source for the seat wires on a 70-72 TR-6 seat? These were used on commission numbers CC50000 up to CF1, and are the wires that go to the side off the seat back frame, providing lateral
I just installed a carpet kit in Sybil, my '72 TR6. It was from TRF, and I too got underfelts and the hardware kit. DO NOT attempt this without the hardware kit! You have to attach the snaps to the
Well, TRF, Moss and VB came up blank and I was unwilling to wait for cross-atlantic parts, and used ones would likely have had the same problem my old ones did. I'm feeling the countdown to the Palo
Yes indeed. Get the REAL hog ring pliers if you ever (or enyone else ever) does this again. I did; and I'm not sorry I spent the $9. Saved mre ore time that that. They have special little grooves to
Yep. in 1982 I moved into the first house I ever *owned*. It was in the bad neighborhood of a poor section of town, but it was *cheap*. I was worried about my Bentley, as there was no garage. A frie