edward k ulm wrote:
>
> On Sat, 01 Aug 1998 16:55:07 -0700 fergie@ntplx.net writes:
> >
> >Hi! I'm new to this mailing list thing - really have no idea what I'm
> >doing, but thought I'd give it a shot. I have a few questions about
> >buying a TR4.
> >
> >1) I realize that a car with fiberglass fenders won't win any concours
> >prizes, but otherwise, is there any reason to reject a car for that
> >reason alone? I didn't even know they MADE glass fenders, but found a
> >car with them and just wondered if it was a good idea.
>
> My recommendation is if the car has fiberglass fenders, walk away. Take
> your time and look for a car with solid steel fenders. Reproduction
> steel fenders are very expensive and I don't think they fit right.
> >
> >2) If I find a car that I like, but that doesn't have wire wheels,
> >what
> >can I expect to pay for a set of painted wheels, splined hubs and
> >knockoffs in reasonable condition? Or are they even available used?
>
> Wire wheels are an attractive period accessory. However they are much
> heavier than the steel disc wheels and get fragile with age. The hubs
> wear, they go out of round and I've heard of spokes breaking. Tire shops
> also have a hard time dealing with them. My advice is to learn to love
> the disc wheels.
>
> Yes you can find the stuff used.
>
> Yes I have wire wheels on my car.
>
> >
> >3) I'm sure I'll think of more, but for now, any suggestions would be
> >appreciated. Thanks, all...
>
> Always look for a solid rust free body. I cant stress how important it is
> to be patient and wait for the right car. Spots to look at are the sill
> area, the inner fenders over the wheel arches, the rear deck where the
> fenders bolt up not to mention the floors (especially where the front of
> the floor meets the bottom of the bulkhead.
>
> Get the Moss and Victoria British catalogs and aquaint yourself with the
> body structure and terminology (and prices).
>
> Take a close look at the frame. Look under the front end and make sure
> everything is straight. The body (at the front) is supported on the
> frame by two angle iron structures on each side. If these are wrinkled or
> bent consider not buying the car.
>
> Make sure all of the body panels line up. If not the car had some
> serious accident damage. Go else where.
>
> If your really extreme (smart) jack up the car and support it on jack
> stands. Crawl under the car with a ball peen hammer and tap around on
> the frame. Use your ears.
> if you hear dull thuds rather than metallic pings beg off. Tell the
> seller that the car is very very nice but its not for you.
>
> That last step may sound dirty and less than fun but its a much more
> enjoyable and less time consuming ($$$) than doing body/frame work.
>
> Look at a minimum of five cars before buying (thanks John Twist).
>
> Take your time and enjoy the buying process.
>
> That's probably enough for now.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Eddy Ulm
> 1963 TR4
> 1980 Spitfire
>
>
>
> >
> >Michael
> >
>
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Thanks, Eddy. Hadn't thought of the ball peen idea, but it sounds like a
good one.
Already looked at one car with the normal (1/8-1/4") space between the
front wing and the top of the door - at least 3/4" space at the bottom!
Guy said it was the result of a poor rocker repair. I passed. Oh, it was
a poor rocker repair too, but not for me.
Is it possible to properly repair a bent frame? I had one guy tell me
his had frame damage on both sides of the front (a previous owner who
was apparently a slow learner - two separate accidents!), but that it
had first been straightened and then, reinforced with welded-on steel.
Is this legit or am I asking for trouble.
Let's see, I've looked at four cars now - there was also a fifth, and
I'd have bought it in a minute, but not for sale. Does this mean the
next one will be THE car? Hope so, getting a little frustrated. Thanks
again.
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