The manual says to wait to tighten down the spring until the car is back on
the ground so that all of the car's weight is then on the spring. I assume
this is to force the bottom surface of the spring flet, thereby making it
easier to tighten the spring flat to the diff.
It took several trys to get the spring flatly on the top of the diff. I
didn't get it all the way down the first time, drove the car a few miles,
torqued a little more, drove a little more, torqued a little more, you get
the idea. Finally, the bottom surface of the spring was resting on the top
surface (in the groove) of the differential. And as I said before, it now
seems to be at nearly the correct negative camber and ride height.
Question to the list. Is the rear leaf spring supposed to be tightened
completely flat to the differential?
Mike
79 Spit
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From: Michael Galloway[SMTP:mgx@icesar.epm.ornl.gov]
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 1997 5:44 AM
To: Ginter, G M (Michael)
Subject: RE: spit 1500 rear wheel chamber
mike ...
i'm gonna remove the spring this weekend. let me get it out and
have a look at it before we start looking for details. thanks for
the offer though.
is your spring not staying torqued down?
-- m
On Tue, 18 Mar 1997, Ginter, G M (Michael) wrote:
> That's a good question that I didn't think to ask at the time. The
> maechanic that rebuilt my rear hubs and diff also asked that question
after
> I got the car back together and drove it over to his shop for his
> evaluation of the rearend overall. I can tell you however, that now that
> it is finished, and after several seperate tries to torque the spring
down
> upon it's mount, the car displays approximately (haven't had it aligned
> yet) 1 - 2 degrees negative camber on the left rear and 2 - 3 degrees
> negative camber on th right rear. It also appears to be sitting at the
> correct (nearly?) hieght.
>
> I could call and ask them what they used for specs?
>
> Mike
>
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