If the fuel delivery is in question, one can temporarily attach a rubber
fuel hose to the output of the fuel pump and watch how fast the pump can
empty into a jug. The pump should tick like crazy and the fuel should gush
out quite rapidly. The quarts per minute is spec'd in the shop manual. This
test will quickly eliminate the in-tank screen and fuel line, if they are
OK. You don't want to mess with these two items, if you don't have to.
Another good test is to simply push the little plunger on top of the carb
fuel bowls. A somewhat slower regular tick should emanate from the pump. If
one bowl clicks slower than the other, there is probably a local obstruction
in the inlet of that particular bowl. Don't hold the plunger down too long
or the fuel will overflow.
Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd@home.com
52 MGTD - NEMGTR #11470
71 MGB - NAMGBR #7-3336
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave and Liz DuBois" <ddubois@sinclair.net>
To: "Dr. Moyce" <amoyce@pol.net>
Cc: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 3:17 AM
Subject: Re: Still not running well
> Andy,
>
> A couple of long shots. I recently had a friend, whose fuel pump I had
> overhauled, start experiencing problems. After checking the fuel pump
> and finding it good, a mutual friend went over to his place and through
> some dogged troubleshooting, found that the intank filter screen was
> varnished over and the fuel line was full of the same varnish like
> material. The two combined to limit the fuel flow to the point that his
> car wouldn't run properly. the obstruction in the fuel line couldn't be
> blown out with high pressure air and had to be reamed out with a length
> of wire. The other thing to check for is a gas cap that is not venting
> properly. The next time you run the car and it starts acting up, pop
> the gas cap and see if that will straighten it out.
>
> Good luck,
> Dave
///
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