Folks,
I just wanted to "straighten out" this thread. I am not offended -
maybe a little annoyed. I could provide a list of "scientific laundry
list" with regards to boiling points, but scientific theories DO NOT
FIX CARS. The point of my response to the original posting was to
give the guy a way to determine (at home) where the actual problem
might lie (thermostat, sending unit or gauge). I've done all of the
"experiments" on the Midget to diagnose the problem.
I know that I over generalized when I said that the boiling point of
water (never exceeds 212). In fact, only under IDEAL conditions will
it boil at 212, but who has a "scientifically accurate" thermometer in
their garage. Not Me!! Besides all you need to know is roughly what
is the temperature at the sending unit.
We could argue about calibrations for quite a long time. However, for
the purpose of calibrating my temperature gauge the assumption that
water is boiling at 212 degees F. Will give me an idea as to what
range of temperatures my temperature gauge is reporting.
I'm done.
Cheers,
Jeff
ORIGINAL POST
You can also determine where the gauge would read at the "boil over"
point. Heat the water to boiling and read what the gauge reads. It
should be hot. Obviously. There is a slight difference in actual
versus observed at the high end of the calibration. This would be due
to the fact that during operation the cooling system is a "closed
system". No water can escape.
The pan of boiliing water is an "open system". The water can boil
away. Remember that boiling water cannot exceed 212 degrees F (under
any circumstances).
Jeff Mathys
1976 Midget (powered by a Triumph 1500 cc motor stock)
Art Mathys
1964 SPL-310 (powered by a Datsun 1500 cc motor stock)
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