One other thing to remember is the block. Sediment can build up in the
bottom of the block and cause the passages to be constricted. I learned
this from my friend Richard Prentice. He suggests that you pull the freeze
plugs on you block and shove a stiff wire in there to knock loose and
sediment and flush it out with your water hose.
Charlie Hubbard
1964 1500
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg boy [SMTP:mgmidgetboy@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 2:53 PM
> To: HUBBARD, Charles E.; datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: datsun sp310
>
> Lads,
>
>
> With all due respect, I am a MG Midget owner who monitors this list
> for my dad (who needs to restore his 1500). I have had problems with
> the Midget overheating.
>
> Is the problem "thermomechanical"? Heat expands a metal which in turn
> push/pulls a spring on the temp gauge.
>
> (1)Is the thermostat working?
>
> (2)Is the temp sending unit working?
>
>
> Heat a pan (glass or steel) with water (in the garage). You can use a
> blowtorch. Place the thermostat in the pan (heat the pan evenly). The
> thermostat (for the Midget) opens at 180 degrees F. What is the
> "opening" temperature for the 1500?
>
> I'm not sure what kind of sending unit is found on the 1500. I would
> guess that it is "thermomechanical" rather than "thermoelectrical".
> So check the sending unit. Once at the opening temperature of the
> thermostat (now you'll know how your gauge correlates to when the
> thermostat is open).
>
> You can also determine where the gauge would read at the "boil over"
> point. Heat the water to boiling and read what the gauge reads. It
> should be hot. Obviously. There is a slight difference in actual
> versus observed at the high end of the calibration. This would be due
> to the fact that during operation the cooling system is a "closed
> system". No water can escape.
>
> The pan of boiliing water is an "open system". The water can boil
> away. Remember that boiling water cannot exceed 212 degrees F (under
> any circumstances).
>
>
> Cheers - And Good Luck,
>
> Jeff Mathys
> 1976 Midget (powered by a Triumph 1500 cc motor stock)
>
> Art Mathys
> 1964 SPL-310 (powered by a Datsun 1500 cc motor stock)
>
>
> ---"HUBBARD, Charles E." <chubbard@shl.com> wrote:
> >
> > Greg,
> >
> > I have the same problem with my 64 1500. Running down the highway,
> the
> > gauge just kept climbing. Slow down below 2900 RPM and the temp
> would go
> > down. I'm getting ready to replace my radiator core but will
> remember to
> > test the gauge first. If the gauge is sending bad information, does
> anyone
> > have any ideas on how to calibrate the gauges to read correctly?
> >
> > Charlie Hubbard
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: greg mitchell [SMTP:gregm@gippstafe.vic.edu.au]
> > > Sent: Monday, February 08, 1999 6:25 PM
> > > To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: datsun sp310
> > >
> > > i`ve just joined this list server and are trying it out.
> > > i have got a sp310 1965 1500 eng.and are restoring it.the car is
> > > 100%original with a 61,000 gen mileage.i am currently cutting the
> rust
> > > out and welding in new sections ready for painting the under body
> i have
> > > painted and rustproofed.
> > > a quick note on overheating,my car was recording upwards of 210` i
> > > replaced the radiator with a new 3 core unit instead of the old 2
> core
> > > drove the car , guess what the tems still similiar.mmmm
> > > i borrowed a laser guided temperature gun from work
> > > results as follows.
> > > engine running at 170 deg--------- gun result-157deg top of radiator
> > > tank
> > > engine running at 190 deg--------- gun result-158 deg
> > > aiming gun on head also recorded 158 deg
> > > moral check out the gauge
> > > more stories soon
> > > greg
> >
>
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