mg boy wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I just wanted to "straighten out" this thread. I am not offended -
> maybe a little annoyed. I could provide a list of "scientific laundry
> list" with regards to boiling points, but scientific theories DO NOT
> FIX CARS. The point of my response to the original posting was to
> give the guy a way to determine (at home) where the actual problem
> might lie (thermostat, sending unit or gauge). I've done all of the
> "experiments" on the Midget to diagnose the problem.
>
> I know that I over generalized when I said that the boiling point of
> water (never exceeds 212). In fact, only under IDEAL conditions will
> it boil at 212, but who has a "scientifically accurate" thermometer in
> their garage. Not Me!! Besides all you need to know is roughly what
> is the temperature at the sending unit.
>
> We could argue about calibrations for quite a long time. However, for
> the purpose of calibrating my temperature gauge the assumption that
> water is boiling at 212 degees F. Will give me an idea as to what
> range of temperatures my temperature gauge is reporting.
>
> I'm done.
> Cheers,
> Jeff
>
> ORIGINAL POST
> You can also determine where the gauge would read at the "boil over"
> point. Heat the water to boiling and read what the gauge reads. It
> should be hot. Obviously. There is a slight difference in actual
> versus observed at the high end of the calibration. This would be due
> to the fact that during operation the cooling system is a "closed
> system". No water can escape.
>
> The pan of boiliing water is an "open system". The water can boil
> away. Remember that boiling water cannot exceed 212 degrees F (under
> any circumstances).
>
> Jeff Mathys
> 1976 Midget (powered by a Triumph 1500 cc motor stock)
> Art Mathys
> 1964 SPL-310 (powered by a Datsun 1500 cc motor stock)
Jeff,
Please don't be too annoyed. there are some of us on this list (at least
one--me), that doesn't have the faintest idea what you guys are talking
about.:-)
Mike Clothier
Norco, Ca.
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