John,
Someone sent me the recipe for Waxoyl - paraffin wax dissolved in mineral
spirits! This would be cheap to make. Waxoyl can be thinned with mineral
spirits and/or by heating it up. I am looking to protect my nice new shiny
(dipped) body and wax seems like a very good idea. I am about to
investigate bees wax. Apparently they found bees wax treated leather in
the pyramids that was still soft! I use it on my leather winter boots and
it is fantastic (Tana makes it). So it may do well protecting metal (don't
think it will soften it ha-ha). The pouring in paint sounds good but
awfully messy??
At 09:52 PM 11/24/01 -0700, John McEwen wrote:
>Hi Trevor:
>
>Long time no speak. As I understand it, the biggest problem with waxoyl is
>that is too stiff and cannot penetrate into small seams. Also, it cannot
>reach a lot of the areas within box section sills and floor structures.
>
>What I have been doing gets around this problem to a large degree. One of
>my friends has been using this system for years. He closes off all of the
>factory drains from sills using duct tape. He then drills a hole or two
>under the door sill plate and then fills the entire volume with Tremclad
>paint. He lets it sit then drains off the residue - collecting it in a
>pan. He then uses the collected paint on the other sill. This method
>ensures that the space is filled not simply sprayed in with a hope for the
>best.
>
>On a car such as a TR he will do the same with the frame - when he is doing
>a restoration. He simply closes the openings and fills it, then lets it
>drain. Doors can be treated this way while on the car as well as trunk
>lids and hoods. It is simply a matter of letting the paint collect and
>soak in.
>
>This same technique can be used in other closed areas provided access is
>available from above and drains can be closed below. This would work on
>Spitfires where the cowls tend to rust out in the lower corners above the
>sills. There are many other examples. Following this treatment, an
>occasional oil soaking works well. The oil is poured in using the same
>technique then allowed to drain. This only needs to be done every 2 or 3
>years depending on conditions of use.
>
>It is an effective and very efficient alternative to expensive Waxoyl. It
>is also very cheap as a gallon of Tremclad vs a gallon of Waxoyl is no
>contest for price.
>
>John
>
>
> >John McEwen wrote:
> >> Waxoyl will solve rust problems
> >
> > Good post all around, but question...
> >
> > ...what do you consider the modern alternative to
> >waxoyl?
> >
> >--
> >Trevor Boicey, P. Eng.
> >Ottawa, Canada, tboicey@brit.ca
> >ICQ #17432933 http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/
> >"At what point does a slow puncture just become a puncture?" Will Holman
Regards
Barrie
Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net
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