Arthur,
Actually, based on the advice from the list, I had my crank cut to use a
modern rubber seal from a Volvo.... The kit that is offered from Moss and
BPNW. Looks great and my machine shop owner chimed in on it being a good
idea and said he had made the conversion on a dozen or so mixed LBCs over
last couple of years.
Brian Sanborn
62 TR4 CT16260L - Groton, MA
sanborn@net1plus.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Arthur H. Smith <arthurhsmith@compuserve.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 4:39 PM
Subject: RE: RE: TR4 leaking engine rear oil seal
>
>Gerard, asks
>> do I need to remove to change the seal? Do I need to go as far as
the
>crankshaft
>
> Brian Sanborn answers
>
>>I am not a big expert but... the seal can't be aligned
>>properly with out a special tool that gets inserted in the
>>crankshaft position. The clearences are critical.
>
>
>I add in:
>TR4 & TR4A manual printed by AUTOPRESS 1971 agrees with Brian.
>But the shop manual for my Jag says to use the same process (different
>tool). I just coated the seal with the PTFE oil additive and placed the
>crank in and torqued the sucker down to specs. 2 years no leaks (from the
>rear seal), its a Brit car.....
>
>
>the arthur
>kit car aka 69 GT6
>garage ornament aka 82 Jag
>box on wheels aka ford????
>
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