Michael,
I'll take your questions one by one:
fergie@ntplx.net wrote:
> I'm considering a DIY paint job and have a few questions.
Good, I'm a body man by trade, I'll answer some
>
>
> Assuming the present paint is solid (no rust, parking lot dents only),
> can I apply lacquer over enamel?
Only if it's old (over a year) and sealed with a decent sealer. But why
bother?Modern enamels have EVERY advantage of laquer, and NONE of the
disadvantages.
This fact is not realized by people who hold to the old days (pre '80's) when
enamel was
a much different product.
>
>
> Should I prime over the enamel first or will sanding be sufficient?
Wetsand overall, after spot repairing body work (dents, rust), spot
priming(with primer-SURFACER), and removing all the "easy" chome items with
400 (for a so-so job), or 600 (for a topnotch job) grit paper.
>
>
> If I fill the dents with Bondo (groan), do I need to remove all old
> paint, then Bondo, or can I apply Bondo over the old (sanded) paint? (If
> anyone has a better suggestion than Bondo, I'm all ears!)
Treat each dent/rust repair as a separate entity. Straighten/patch first,
leavingpaint on as much as possible, to help guide you in straightening. Using
the paint's
gloss, this is easier. Grind paint off fill repair. I've never used lead, so
I can't help
you there. Prime with primer-surfacer, which fills in pin-holes, and fine
scrathes.
Then move on to another dent.
>
>
> Is there anything I can spray over the finished Bondo (before the
> primer) to better determine if I've done an adequate job with the
> patching before I apply the primer?
Be advised there are two types (type meaning function here) of primer:
Primer Surfacer- very heavy bodied primer, fills in very small imperfections,
available as an epoxy type (state of the art) or old
fashioned
laquer-based. Primer-surfacer is used in areas of
repair, not
all over the car, it is the primer most people are
familiar with,
in splotches all around a car.
Primer Sealer- A thinner primer, it is sprayed "over all" on the car, just
prior to
"top coating" a car. It is usually not seen on cars
driving around.
The top coat (the actual color paint) is usually
sprayed on the P-
Sealer "wet on wet", that is, spray the P-Sealer, clean
your gun,
spray your paint. It requires no sanding, or
remasking, and is
put on at the same sray-booth session the car is
top-coated.
>
>
> What are the drawbacks of driving a car with exposed Bondo or, for that
> matter, with primered Bondo? I ask this (probably stupid) question
> because I'm trying to keep the car on the road as much as possible while
> I'm doing the body work.
Primer Surfacer, which is aplied over the filler, will slowly absorb water
andalow surface rusting of the steel underneath. A worse problem is oil and
other
contaminants getting on the repair, causing "fish eyes", wher thepaint actually
pulls away from the contaminant. I would not drive a primered car in the rain,
and certainly not drive it more than a week or two before topcoating.
>
>
> Is a standard compressor setup recommended or should I consider a HVLP
> unit? I've heard good things about HVLP (mostly, less paint required and
> fewer paint fumes to deal with), but don't know if the job will come out
> better with a conventional compressor.\
I have just started using an HVLP gun at work, and while it uses less
material,I really don't like its atomization quality. I am still experimenting
with different
pressures/settings, so I won't condemn it yet, though.
>
>
> I'm sure I'll think of more questions, but that's about it for now.
> Thanks everyone! As always, any suggestions will be most appreciated!!
>
> Michael Ferguson
> Vernon, CT
Micheal,
If you have any more questions, e-mail me direct, as I think the list may
not
want to be burdened with what is going to be a rather lenghty running
conversation
on a boderline non- LBC topic. Besides, if you want to visit, I can give you
first
hand expeirience in painting. I am just getting ready to paint my TR 250 this
weekend
as a matter of fact!!
JOE IV
TR 250
WALLINGFORD, CT USA
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