Joe,
Consider keeping your paint technology dialog on the list. There is not a
single LBC that does not use that technology. As I start this car project,
paint is one of
those early decision point hurdles that must be conquered. In this case there
isn't any good paint on the car, it all has to come off. I've been web surfing
the paint
pages trying to figure out what system to use. It looks like the brand
decision is going to come down to most convenient local supplier that has the
features I decide
on. The search has been interesting, particularly on the topic of epoxies.
The people that have used it like the protection, those that have not, don't
think it's
necessary because of expense. I had used an epoxy paint on a boat years ago
and loved the results, so I am leaning toward those primers.
The search has identified that there is more to paint then two cans and a
brush. Your profession (or if you prefer Art) seems to involve evolving
strategies of layering of
multiple products. Rust prevention steps pre-primer play an important role and
seem to represent newer technology. It is my impression that it takes quite a
bit of effort
to master the newest combination of products a specific vendor offers. Like
most changes in technology, some pieces won't be accepted as safe until they've
been in the
market 10 years, so the dialog can be confusing to those of us that are
novices. In my opinion there's room for active dialog as well as VTR reference
pages on the latest
in paint.
Most of what I've found have been vendor product pages which are more
specification oriented. Are you aware of any good books or web sites that are
application tips
oriented? Im still up in the air on DIY or having it done, fear will be the
decision catalyst. Progress on the car will create a must decide point.
Jack McCarrick
'60 TR3A
Joseph Sholtes wrote:
> Michael,
>
> I'll take your questions one by one:
>
> fergie@ntplx.net wrote:
>
> > I'm considering a DIY paint job and have a few questions.
>
> Good, I'm a body man by trade, I'll answer some
>
> >
> >
> > Assuming the present paint is solid (no rust, parking lot dents only),
> > can I apply lacquer over enamel?
>
> Only if it's old (over a year) and sealed with a decent sealer. But why
>bother?Modern enamels have EVERY advantage of laquer, and NONE of the
>disadvantages.
> This fact is not realized by people who hold to the old days (pre '80's) when
>enamel was
> a much different product.
>
> >
> >
> > Should I prime over the enamel first or will sanding be sufficient?
>
> Wetsand overall, after spot repairing body work (dents, rust), spot
>priming(with primer-SURFACER), and removing all the "easy" chome items with
> 400 (for a so-so job), or 600 (for a topnotch job) grit paper.
>
> >
> >
> > If I fill the dents with Bondo (groan), do I need to remove all old
> > paint, then Bondo, or can I apply Bondo over the old (sanded) paint? (If
> > anyone has a better suggestion than Bondo, I'm all ears!)
>
> Treat each dent/rust repair as a separate entity. Straighten/patch first,
>leavingpaint on as much as possible, to help guide you in straightening.
>Using the paint's
> gloss, this is easier. Grind paint off fill repair. I've never used lead,
>so I can't help
> you there. Prime with primer-surfacer, which fills in pin-holes, and fine
>scrathes.
> Then move on to another dent.
>
> >
> >
> > Is there anything I can spray over the finished Bondo (before the
> > primer) to better determine if I've done an adequate job with the
> > patching before I apply the primer?
>
> Be advised there are two types (type meaning function here) of primer:
>
> Primer Surfacer- very heavy bodied primer, fills in very small imperfections,
> available as an epoxy type (state of the art) or
>old fashioned
> laquer-based. Primer-surfacer is used in areas of
>repair, not
> all over the car, it is the primer most people are
>familiar with,
> in splotches all around a car.
>
> Primer Sealer- A thinner primer, it is sprayed "over all" on the car, just
>prior to
> "top coating" a car. It is usually not seen on cars
>driving around.
> The top coat (the actual color paint) is usually
>sprayed on the P-
> Sealer "wet on wet", that is, spray the P-Sealer,
>clean your gun,
> spray your paint. It requires no sanding, or
>remasking, and is
> put on at the same sray-booth session the car is
>top-coated.
>
> >
> >
> > What are the drawbacks of driving a car with exposed Bondo or, for that
> > matter, with primered Bondo? I ask this (probably stupid) question
> > because I'm trying to keep the car on the road as much as possible while
> > I'm doing the body work.
>
> Primer Surfacer, which is aplied over the filler, will slowly absorb water
>andalow surface rusting of the steel underneath. A worse problem is oil and
>other
> contaminants getting on the repair, causing "fish eyes", wher thepaint
>actually
> pulls away from the contaminant. I would not drive a primered car in the
>rain,
> and certainly not drive it more than a week or two before topcoating.
>
> >
> >
> > Is a standard compressor setup recommended or should I consider a HVLP
> > unit? I've heard good things about HVLP (mostly, less paint required and
> > fewer paint fumes to deal with), but don't know if the job will come out
> > better with a conventional compressor.\
>
> I have just started using an HVLP gun at work, and while it uses less
>material,I really don't like its atomization quality. I am still
>experimenting with different
> pressures/settings, so I won't condemn it yet, though.
>
> >
> >
> > I'm sure I'll think of more questions, but that's about it for now.
> > Thanks everyone! As always, any suggestions will be most appreciated!!
> >
> > Michael Ferguson
> > Vernon, CT
>
> Micheal,
>
> If you have any more questions, e-mail me direct, as I think the list may
>not
> want to be burdened with what is going to be a rather lenghty running
>conversation
> on a boderline non- LBC topic. Besides, if you want to visit, I can give you
>first
> hand expeirience in painting. I am just getting ready to paint my TR 250
>this weekend
> as a matter of fact!!
>
> JOE IV
> TR 250
> WALLINGFORD, CT USA
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