>The Boat guys told me to use the Chevy 327 Hipo rods which were >plentifull,
and very strong, because the stock rods were cast iron.
>I have since found out that there are several length to the "Stock"
>chev 327 rods..
Hey Dave Williams, you out there? Care to comment?
>Larger vavles are better for breathing, but typically weigh more and
>that becomes critical at high R's. I currently have a full set of brand
>new TRW stock valves for the 63 215. My plan was to get some
>Manley SS valves if the exist, or have them make a set for me.
Most turn down Chev or other off-the-shelf valves to fit, cut pushrods
and/or make spacers to maintain geometry.
>Why should I source the roller rockers from Aussie land? Are they >made
there? This is news to me!
The Yella Terra ones are. J.P. Performance also makes timing
chains and timing gear sets there as well. Other parts (Harcourt)
are sourced from New Zealand but the exchange rate is not favorable.
Another thing to watch out for are solid roller cams. These are really
race pieces and must be maintain accordingly. A number of Pantera owners
have used them and found them to be a big $$$ mistake.
You may have to pull the intake and inspect the roller lifters every
few thousand miles. Also watch out for cam gear compatibilty.
Shouldn't be a problem with the 215 though because it uses a
removeable cam gear. Just use the iron gear on the steel billet and
a cast iron distributor gear.
Later,
Dan Jones
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Jones <djones2@mdc.com>
To: buick-rover-v8@Autox.Team.Net <buick-rover-v8@Autox.Team.Net>;
gumby@connectexpress.com <gumby@connectexpress.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 4:54 PM
Subject: New Member on the List - Reply
>Rich,
>
><cool story deleted>
>
>> A little research at my local "Bill's Auto Parts" found that the owner
>>was VERY familiar with the engines, as he was a primary builder of them
>for
>>the inboard Boat racing class called N225. the 225 being the max
>>displacement allowed. In this class the ran Dodge 225 slant 6's Ford
>221
>>V-8's, and the Buick/Olds 215's. More investigation found that the 215
>were
>>the way to go in the boats, as they won almost every race, and were very
>>reliable, according to the boat owners and drivers. Got a good list
of
>>parts from them, and found that they set their rev limitters at 9,000
>RPM
>>during the preliminary heats, and would turn them up to 9,500 for the
>Final
>>heat. They did this all season long without breaking them. I WAS
>>CONVINCED.
>
>There's an interview with a retired boat racer in one of the MGBV8
>newsletters that sounds similar. They built them to rev, not necessarily
>make horsepower since the prop wasn't always in the water. Wild thing
>was they used prepared but stock rods (which are forged, BTW) and
>cranks.
>
>>Probably will sell this block, and acquire a later stronger Rover block
>
>The only block failures I've heard of have been due to overboring and
>sleeving. Beyond that Chris Crane claims the main caps can walk due
>to loose fit bolts. ARP main studs are the answer. If you're going all
>out, the late Rover blocks are cross bolted.
>
>>Would prefer EFI, and electronic ignition, if the EFI can support 9,000
>>RPM's
>
>EFI will take work. Check on the DIY_EFI list. I'd first put the motor
>together using a 4 bbl and single plane race intake (Huffaker/, Harcourt/,
>Wilpower, or Offy 360). Another option would be the Offy 2 x 2 bbl
>intake that (still available through D&D).
>
>If you are wanting to run this on the street, an independent runner
>(Weber or EFI) manifold is worth a look. Much easier to make idle
>and operate at lower rpms when the overlap reversion is isolated
>by the independent runners.
>
>As far as ignition, go with a Mallory Unilte and a Hyfire IV or MSD.
>Vizard claims the Hyfire is absolutely rock solid past 9000 rpm.
>
>>Billet crank, stock stroke of 2.8" (probably....since I really like
HIGH
>>RPM's) Forged, Billet or Aluminum Rods (longer than stock)
>
>Plenty of room for long rods if you move the pin up the piston.
>Beware aluminum rods have a very short fatigue lifespan.
>Better to get some light steel rods. Of course titanium is nice if
>you're made of $$$.
>
>>Roller Cam bearings
>>Roller Cam and lifters
>>Roller Rockers
>>Custom Forged Pistons (J&E or Johns...probably 10.5 to 11.0 cr.)
>>Aluminum Flywheel
>>roller cam chain, or possibly gear drive set
>>Main bearing Stud kits, and any other block improvements
>
>Might want to try Total Alloy Enterprises. He seems to
>have a lot of the exotic parts in his flyer. I'd also look
>into sourcing the roller rockers and the like directly
>from Australia. The exchange rate is favorable.
>
>>HP output is planned in the 390 to 425 range. Redline of 9,500 RPM
>>However, will set rev limitter to no more than probably 8,500 RPM
>
>I would think you'd want to use a set of heavily ported Buick 300
>heads with larger valves as well. Might want to contact Ron
>Hopwood or Woody Cooper.
>
>Did the boat racer mention oiling system modifications?
>Might want to duplicate the Buick V6 race mods.
>
>Welcome Aboard,
>Dan Jones
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