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Re: New Member on the List - Reply

To: "Dan Jones" <djones2@mdc.com>, <buick-rover-v8@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: New Member on the List - Reply
From: "Rich Atherton" <gumby@connectexpress.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 02:27:09 -0800
    Hmm  Many Good ideas there Dan.  The Boat guys told me to use the Chevy
327 Hipo rods which were plentifull, and very strong, because the stock rods
were cast iron.  I have since found out that there are several length to the
"Stock" chev 327 rods..On the Sunbeam Tiger List, there has been a long
discussion of rod length's and their dis / advantages.  It seems that the
longer rods are a better way to go.  With Custom Pistons, the pin's
placement & offset are all variables to be determined.

    No, the boat guys made no mention about the oiling, but in ALL other
engines that I have built, car and motorcycle for perfomance, I have alsways
reworked the oiling system.  The oil journals were going to be cleared and
enlarged throughout the block and heads, along with a high volume pump with
higher presure relief valve and dual high flow filters and cooler with
thermostat.  Larger vavles are better for breathing, but typically weigh
more and that becomes critical at high R's.  I currently have a full set of
brand new TRW stock valves for the 63 215.  My plan was to get some Manley
SS valves if the exist, or have them make a set for me.

    Why should I source the roller rockers from Aussie land?  Are they made
there?  This is news to me!

Thanks Rich




-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Jones <djones2@mdc.com>
To: buick-rover-v8@Autox.Team.Net <buick-rover-v8@Autox.Team.Net>;
gumby@connectexpress.com <gumby@connectexpress.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 4:54 PM
Subject: New Member on the List - Reply


>Rich,
>
><cool story deleted>
>
>>   A little research at my local "Bill's Auto Parts" found that the owner
>>was VERY familiar with the engines, as he was a primary builder of them
>for
>>the inboard Boat racing class called N225.  the 225 being the max
>>displacement allowed.  In this class the ran Dodge 225 slant 6's Ford
>221
>>V-8's, and the Buick/Olds 215's.  More investigation found that the 215
>were
>>the way to go in the boats, as they won almost every race, and were very
>>reliable, according to the boat owners and drivers.  Got a good list of
>>parts from them, and found that they set their rev limitters at 9,000
>RPM
>>during the preliminary heats, and would turn them up to 9,500 for the
>Final
>>heat.  They did this all season long without breaking them.  I WAS
>>CONVINCED.
>
>There's an interview with a retired boat racer in one of the MGBV8
>newsletters that sounds similar.  They built them to rev, not necessarily
>make horsepower since the prop wasn't always in the water.  Wild thing
>was they used prepared but stock rods (which are forged, BTW) and
>cranks.
>
>>Probably will sell this block, and acquire a later stronger Rover block
>
>The only block failures I've heard of have been due to overboring and
>sleeving.  Beyond that Chris Crane claims the main caps can walk due
>to loose fit bolts.  ARP main studs are the answer.  If you're going all
>out, the late Rover blocks are cross bolted.
>
>>Would prefer EFI, and electronic ignition, if the EFI can support 9,000
>>RPM's
>
>EFI will take work.  Check on the DIY_EFI list.  I'd first put the motor
>together using a 4 bbl and single plane race intake (Huffaker/, Harcourt/,
>Wilpower, or Offy 360).  Another option would be the Offy 2 x 2 bbl
>intake that (still available through D&D).
>
>If you are wanting to run this on the street, an independent runner
>(Weber or EFI) manifold is worth a look.  Much easier to make idle
>and operate at lower rpms when the overlap reversion is isolated
>by the independent runners.
>
>As far as ignition, go with a Mallory Unilte and a Hyfire IV or MSD.
>Vizard claims the Hyfire is absolutely rock solid past 9000 rpm.
>
>>Billet crank, stock stroke of 2.8"  (probably....since I really like HIGH
>>RPM's) Forged, Billet or Aluminum Rods (longer than stock)
>
>Plenty of room for long rods if you move the pin up the piston.
>Beware aluminum rods have a very short fatigue lifespan.
>Better to get some light steel rods.  Of course titanium is nice if
>you're made of $$$.
>
>>Roller Cam bearings
>>Roller Cam and lifters
>>Roller Rockers
>>Custom Forged Pistons (J&E or Johns...probably 10.5 to 11.0 cr.)
>>Aluminum Flywheel
>>roller cam chain, or possibly gear drive set
>>Main bearing Stud kits, and any other block improvements
>
>Might want to try Total Alloy Enterprises.  He seems to
>have a lot of the exotic parts in his flyer.  I'd also look
>into sourcing the roller rockers and the like directly
>from Australia.  The exchange rate is favorable.
>
>>HP output is planned in the 390 to 425 range.  Redline of 9,500 RPM
>>However, will set rev limitter to no more than probably 8,500 RPM
>
>I would think you'd want to use a set of heavily ported Buick 300
>heads with larger valves as well.  Might want to contact Ron
>Hopwood or Woody Cooper.
>
>Did the boat racer mention oiling system modifications?
>Might want to duplicate the Buick V6 race mods.
>
>Welcome Aboard,
>Dan Jones



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