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Hank,
I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not
plastic. Supposedly unsinkable.
Cheers,
Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
> I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static
> mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston
> removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or
> as you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs
> together it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The
> suggestion that was made that we really need to have clear plastic
> float bowls has merit. I cannot tell if the brass float is pushing
> hard enough to shut off the peg on the valve. When held shut by hand
> its positive.
> If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on
> the peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats
> instead of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float
> and needle valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one
> will now start leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a
> dry day (next year?) to test that theory.
> --------------------
>
> From: "richard mayor" <boyracer466@gmail.com>
> To: "Leach Hank" <gradea1@charter.net>
> Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
> Hank,
> If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in
> the carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.
> Â Not from the overflow tube on the float chamber. Iâ??ll proceed with
> this assumption.
> The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float
> chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why
> float level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet
> before the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber
> then your float level is set too high. Â You need to close the float
> needle valve with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th
> as a guide, try 1/2â?? and see if that stops the flow. Â But then you
> said you tried different settings.
> Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all
> the way to the top to close the needle valve? Â Try a different float.
> Polish the post. Â Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the
> casting that is not allowing the needle to move feely into itâ??s seat.
> Â I think thatâ??s where the problem is.
>
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466@gmail.com
>
> On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28â?¯PM, Hank Leach via Healeys
> <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
> Â I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear
> carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very
> simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find
> that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the
> flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area
> and out overflow drain tube.
> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and
> clean and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and
> reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor
> and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job. Both carb pistons drop
> with a clunk at the same time. Turn on key- fuel pump
> clicking-overflow again leaking.
> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced
> many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are
> not leaking. I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but
> then again, this is a British Car.
> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid
> with carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no
> leaking. That's two places checked (these are unfortunately "new"
> parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle and jet if
> not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as
> specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am
> tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top
> .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all
> testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere
> so best done outside in the rain.
> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the
> simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is
> applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With
> covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure
> is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct pump
> and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick,
> tick which it should not do! Fuel is going out and down the drain
> tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top
> of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure
> the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to
> see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total
> on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss
> India knockoffs.
> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the
> carb off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally
> with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says
> use plastic floats...Hank
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<p>Hank,</p>
<p>I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber -
nitrophyl, not plastic. Supposedly unsinkable.</p>
<p>Cheers,<br>
</p>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:343cf591-a5ca-51a9-f15a-c5d001e33323@charter.net">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div>I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from.
In static mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with
dashpot and piston removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says
about 1/8" below jet or as you say equal to float setting).
However, with key on and carbs together it's a different
story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was made
that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit.
I cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut
off the peg on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough
pressure on the peg to stop the flow. This is why someone
suggested plastic floats instead of brass. Fuel is the shut off
mechanism. I have swapped float and needle valves from front to
rear carb in hopes that the front one will now start leaking.
That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next
year?) to test that theory.<br>
-------------------- <br>
<br>
From: "richard mayor" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:boyracer466@gmail.com";><boyracer466@gmail.com></a> <br>
To: "Leach Hank" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:gradea1@charter.net";><gradea1@charter.net></a> <br>
Cc: "healeys" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";><healeys@autox.team.net></a> <br>
Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube <br>
Hank,</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the
jet in the carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the
drain tube. Â Not from the overflow tube on the float chamber.
Iâ??ll proceed with this assumption.</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the
float chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That
is why float level is so important. Â If fuel is flowing out of
 the jet before the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at
the float chamber then your float level is set too high. Â You
need to close the float needle valve with the float at a lower
level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2â?? and see if
that stops the flow. Â But then you said you tried different
settings. </div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from
rising all the way to the top to close the needle valve? Â Try a
different float. Polish the post. Â Is there any wear in the fork
or pivot in the casting that is not allowing the needle to move
feely into itâ??s seat.  I think thatâ??s where the problem is. </div>
<div><br id="lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage">
<div>
<div>Richard Mayor</div>
<div><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:boyracer466@gmail.com";>boyracer466@gmail.com</a></div>
<div>Â </div>
</div>
<div><br>
<blockquote>
<div>On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28â?¯PM, Hank Leach via Healeys
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";><healeys@autox.team.net></a>
wrote:</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>Â I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting
from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years.
These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be
done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is
out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat
about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle
area and out overflow drain tube.Â
<div>Â </div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a
4 hour job- and clean and replace gaskets and gland
washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center
jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and
connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job. Both carb
pistons drop with a clunk at the same time. Turn on
key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking. </div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass)
were replaced many times-that's not the issue. No
fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking. I just
cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then
again, this is a British Car. </div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled
the float lid with carb cleaner while holding needle
valve closed and no leaking. That's two places checked
(these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next
leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed
off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as
specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean
that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are
about the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter
at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the
garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best
done outside in the rain.</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I
prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips which do
work if pressure is applied by forked leg-also new,
and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls
are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a
thought as it can push by the stops but its the
correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to
a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!Â
Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my
swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top
of the needles to see if they are really at .089.
Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe
stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you,
these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far
as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India
knockoffs.</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>I really thought that the centering was the issue
and took the carb off for that reason which cured the
drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not the
problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic
floats...Hank</div>
</div>
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<fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
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