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<div>Ah! A rebel in the crowd. I looked at a bunch of photos of 1953 100 =
engines on the web. Many are configured as mine with NO FLOAT BOWL =
DRAIN TUBES. The <em>later </em>engine setups have drain tubes in the=
lid. This includes the cars using H6 carbs (Lemans). Also, on these =
early designs there is a different carb adaptor. Part 1B1672 which =
has a lower drain in the casing<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;">=
up to engine # 139915</span> (my engine 139563). Of course Moss, etc. only=
sell the later style products. but some books show the solid float lids =
and some show vented lids and some show a lid with a drain tube (air vent).=
</div>
<div> </div>
<div>So, in theory the way the early system works;=
fuel is inlet from the float chamber and enters the jet thru a hole in the=
tube positioned between the two gland washers which are to keep the fuel =
intact. when the choke is pulled that jet hole is lowered to send in,=
as the British say..."a neat petrol supply" to start the car.</div>
<div>Now, if you turn on the key, fuel pumps in and is moved thru the jet =
into the throttle area and into the manifold. <span =
style=3D"text-decoration: underline;">Unless the engine is now =
turning</span> and suction from the piston is active, the fuel will run =
haplessly in the intake manifold and out the drain tube to the ground. So =
the important procedure in these early systems is turn the key and crank =
the engine <span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;">immediately</span> =
or it will overflow fuel down the drain tube. I'm here testing the =
operation of the carburetors in a static mode-its not going to do anything =
but spew fuel to the ground. Right?</div>
<div> </div>
<div>The later design using a float bowl vent tube also send fuel into the =
manifold but without a drain tube the fuel will go into the engine, as the =
Moss PDF described, diluting the oil and washing the cylinders. Sounds like=
the best method of starting up is to crank the engine as soon as you hear =
the fuel pump click...I typically have waited until the pump stopped (float=
bowls full) before cranking. Live and learn?Hank</div>
<div> </div>
<div><br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" =
<ynotink@msn.com> <br>To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <healeys@autox.=
team.net>, "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell@earthlink.net>, "richard =
mayor" <boyracer466@gmail.com>, <gradea1@charter.net> <br>Sent:=
December 22, 2024 at 9:29 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing =
fuel into intake drain tube </div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; =
font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: =
transparent;"> </div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: =
inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">I’d like to =
be able to answer that, but I have to confess I’ve modified the =
induction system on mine (I know, I’m going to Hell) and I’m a =
little fuzzy on the details. If memory serves (a doubtful premise) the =
float bowls originally had an open vent arrangement on the top with no =
drain tubes. The car was built up from several dozen boxes of parts, so =
that may not have been correct. About 20 years ago I built a pair of H6s =
and installed those with drain tubes. The car is a bitsa anyway so =
originality is secondary, or maybe tertiary…</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; =
background-color: transparent;"> </div>
<div style=3D"font-family: =
inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: =
transparent;">Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; =
font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">BN1 =
554</div>
<hr style=3D"display: inline-block; width: 98%;">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg"><strong>From:</strong> Healeys =
<healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys =
<healeys@autox.team.net><br><strong>Sent:</strong> Monday, December =
23, 2024 1:59 AM<br><strong>To:</strong> Bob Haskell =
<rchaskell@earthlink.net>; richard mayor <boyracer466@gmail.=
com><br><strong>Cc:</strong> healeys <healeys@autox.team.=
net><br><strong>Subject:</strong> Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into =
intake drain tube
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>
<div>Thanks Bob-yes the =
Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile floats and about $20 each. =
Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the float chamber overflow =
AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each. I do not have these overflows on my =
float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their location) Instead the early =
cars have silver vent caps and a red washer which allows air out and those =
two intake manifold copper drain pipes at the bottom of the carb intakes. =
There is a PDF note on that part which reads:</div>
<div> </div>
<div>"These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and =
most important) they allow the fuel coming into the float bowl to displace =
the air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely manner=
. Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as they =
do when a bit of grit is trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be =
piped out and down – away from the engine. If the <strong>fuel could =
not escape through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor =
throat into the engine</strong>. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of=
it will vaporize before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize =
will make the mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will =
belch black smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and =
die."</div>
<div> </div>
<div>The point here is that not having those =
overflows on the float bowls; the overflow is actually after the throttle =
plates on my car. I wonder how Bill Lawrence's early car is configured and =
if he has float bowl overflows or intake overflows? Is it possible that =
this is a clue to my delima? Trapped air? Hank</div>
<div>-------------------- <br><br>From: "Bob Haskell" =
<rchaskell@earthlink.net> <br>To: <gradea1@charter.net>, =
"richard mayor" <boyracer466@gmail.com> <br>Cc: "healeys" =
<healeys@autox.team.net> <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST =
<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube</div>
<p>Hank,</p>
<p>I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - =
nitrophyl, not plastic. Supposedly unsinkable.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<pre class=3D"x_moz-signature">Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster =
registrar</pre>
<div class=3D"x_moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank =
Leach via Healeys wrote:</div>
<blockquote>
<div>I actually cannot figure =
where all the fuel is coming from. In static mode-key off and float bowls =
at proper level-with dashpot and piston removed, no fuel is apparent (as =
Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as you say equal to float setting). =
However, with key on and carbs together it's a different story-fuel is =
flowing steadily. The suggestion that was made that we really need to have =
clear plastic float bowls has merit. I cannot tell if the brass float is =
pushing hard enough to shut off the peg on the valve. When held shut by =
hand its positive.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>If the float is "heavy", =
then it will not effect enough pressure on the peg to stop the flow. This =
is why someone suggested plastic floats instead of brass. Fuel is the shut =
off mechanism. I have swapped float and needle valves from front to rear =
carb in hopes that the front one will now start leaking. That may be a clue=
to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next year?) to test that theory.=
<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "richard mayor" <a =
class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D"mailto:boyracer466@gmail.com";> =
<boyracer466@gmail.com></a> <br>To: "Leach Hank" <a =
class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D"mailto:gradea1@charter.net";> =
<gradea1@charter.net></a> <br>Cc: "healeys" <a =
class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";> =
<healeys@autox.team.net></a> <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM =
PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube =
<br>Hank,</div>
<div> </div>
<div>If I read your post correctly, the =
fuel is coming out of the jet in the carburetor into the intake manifold =
and then out the drain tube. Not from the overflow tube on the float =
chamber. I’ll proceed with this assumption.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float =
chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float =
level is so important. If fuel is flowing out of the jet before=
the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your =
float level is set too high. You need to close the float needle valve=
with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try =
1/2” and see if that stops the flow. But then you said you =
tried different settings. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all =
the way to the top to close the needle valve? Try a different float. =
Polish the post. Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the =
casting that is not allowing the needle to move feely into it’s seat.=
I think that’s where the problem is. </div>
<div><br id=3D"x_lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage">
<div>
<div>Richard Mayor</div>
<div><a class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-abbreviated" =
href=3D"mailto:boyracer466@gmail.com";>boyracer466@gmail.com</a></div>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div><br>
<blockquote>
<div>On Dec 22, 2024, at =
12:28=E2=80=AFPM, Hank Leach via Healeys <a class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-rfc2396=
E" href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";> <healeys@autox.team.=
net></a> wrote:</div>
<div>
<div>
<div> I have chased the cause of =
too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years=
. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be done correctly to =
perform. So I find that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up =
above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area =
and out overflow drain tube.
<div> </div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean=
and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center =
jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another=
4 hour job. Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.=
Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) =
were replaced many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they=
are not leaking. I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but =
then again, this is a British Car. </div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with =
carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two =
places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak =
could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .=
090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are =
lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at =
top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing =
stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done =
outside in the rain.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I know some folks like =
Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips =
which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-also new, and set to =
7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. =
Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct =
pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, =
tick which it should not do! Fuel is going out and down the drain =
tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of the =
needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but =
its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you=
, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these =
are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb =
off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. =
That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...=
Hank</div>
</div>
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</blockquote>
</div>
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<br>
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