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Hank,
If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the =
carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube. Not =
from the overflow tube on the float chamber. I=E2=80=99ll proceed with =
this assumption.
The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float =
chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float =
level is so important. If fuel is flowing out of the jet before the =
needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your =
float level is set too high. You need to close the float needle valve =
with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try =
1/2=E2=80=9D and see if that stops the flow. But then you said you =
tried different settings.=20
Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all the =
way to the top to close the needle valve? Try a different float. Polish =
the post. Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is =
not allowing the needle to move feely into it=E2=80=99s seat. I think =
that=E2=80=99s where the problem is.=20
Richard Mayor
boyracer466@gmail.com
> On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28=E2=80=AFPM, Hank Leach via Healeys =
<healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>=20
> I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear =
carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple =
design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is =
out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that =
would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.=20=
> =20
> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean =
and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and =
center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel =
lines-another 4 hour job. Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the =
same time. Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.=20
> =20
> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many =
times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not =
leaking. I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, =
this is a British Car.=20
> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with =
carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's =
two places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next =
leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new =
parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs =
which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about =
the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is =
all testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so =
best done outside in the rain.
> =20
> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple =
brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by =
forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both =
bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can =
push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast =
then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do! =
Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. =
Im tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they are really =
at .089. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a =
number drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 =
miles total on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not =
Moss India knockoffs.
> =20
> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb =
off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. =
That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic =
floats...Hank
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>=20
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466@gmail.com
>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: =
after-white-space;">Hank,<div><br></div><div>If I read your post =
correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the carburetor into the =
intake manifold and then out the drain tube. Not from the overflow =
tube on the float chamber. I=E2=80=99ll proceed with this =
assumption.</div><div><br></div><div>The level of fuel at the jet is the =
same level as that in the float chamber. That is the way these SU carbs =
are designed. That is why float level is so important. If fuel is =
flowing out of the jet before the needle valve shuts off the fuel =
supply at the float chamber then your float level is set too high. =
You need to close the float needle valve with the float at a lower =
level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2=E2=80=9D and see if =
that stops the flow. But then you said you tried different =
settings. </div><div><br></div><div>Is there an obstruction that is =
preventing the float from rising all the way to the top to close the =
needle valve? Try a different float. Polish the post. Is =
there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is not allowing =
the needle to move feely into it=E2=80=99s seat. I think that=E2=80=99=
s where the problem is. </div><div><br =
id=3D"lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage"><div>
<div>Richard =
Mayor</div><div>boyracer466@gmail.com</div><div><br></div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">
</div>
<div><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28=E2=80=AF=
PM, Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div><div>
<div> I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the =
rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very =
simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the =
jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about =
1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow =
drain tube.
<div> </div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and =
clean and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and =
center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel =
lines-another 4 hour job. Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at =
the same time. Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again =
leaking. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced =
many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not =
leaking. I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then =
again, this is a British Car. </div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid =
with carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. =
That's two places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the =
next leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new =
parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs =
which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about =
the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is =
all testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so =
best done outside in the rain.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the =
simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied =
by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both =
bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can =
push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast =
then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not =
do! Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool =
drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they =
are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe =
stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have =
about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" =
parts-not Moss India knockoffs.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb =
off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. =
That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic =
floats...Hank</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>Support Team.Net =
$12.75<br><br>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys<br><br>Healeys@autox.team.net<br>htt=
p://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466@gmail.com<br><br=
></div></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>=
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