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Hank, Mike is correct that the jet needle is not intended to be a stopper f=
or the jet. In fact in theory it shouldn=92t even touch it. Considering tha=
t this appears to be a chronic problem on only one carburetor and with all =
you have attempted to correct it, it seems to me the problem is a defect in=
the carburetor itself. If the needle valve and float are in good condition=
and in adjustment the fuel level in the bowl and at the venturi bridge wil=
l never be high enough to run out of the jet. It seems that there is a flaw=
or a crack in or around the needle valve orifice that is allowing fuel to =
leak past the needle valve. Have you tried switching out the fuel bowl lid?=
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach via =
Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2024 8:28 PM
To: Healey team <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor =
overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but mu=
st be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of center an=
d piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to =
run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.
No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and =
replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet..=
.now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 ho=
ur job. Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time. Turn on key=
- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.
I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many times-=
that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking. I just=
cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a British =
Car.
Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with carb =
cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two places=
checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be b=
etween the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needle=
s are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am=
tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but =
ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the gar=
age and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.
I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass =
ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-als=
o new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally ab=
out 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but =
its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... bu=
t then tick, tick which it should not do! Fuel is going out and down the d=
rain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of th=
e needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but =
its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you=
, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these ar=
e "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off for=
that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not =
the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
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<div><br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
Hank, Mike is correct that the jet needle is not intended to be a stopper f=
or the jet. In fact in theory it shouldn=92t even touch it. Considering tha=
t this appears to be a chronic problem on only one carburetor and with all =
you have attempted to correct it,
it seems to me the problem is a defect in the carburetor itself. If the ne=
edle valve and float are in good condition and in adjustment the fuel level=
in the bowl and at the venturi bridge will never be high enough to run out=
of the jet. It seems that there
is a flaw or a crack in or around the needle valve orifice that is allowin=
g fuel to leak past the needle valve. Have you tried switching out the fuel=
bowl lid? Hope this helps. Good luck.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
BN1 554</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-b=
ounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys@a=
utox.team.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 22, 2024 8:28 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healey team <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div> I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear c=
arburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple desi=
gn, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of=
center and piston is sticking up above
the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area a=
nd out overflow drain tube.
<div> </div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean=
and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center =
jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another=
4 hour job. Both carb pistons
drop with a clunk at the same time. Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-=
overflow again leaking. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many t=
imes-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.&nb=
sp; I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is =
a British Car. </div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with =
carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two p=
laces checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next =
leak could be between the needle and jet if
not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i =
also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually bo=
th needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid =
range. Problem is all testing stinks
up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in =
the rain.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple b=
rass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked le=
g-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are =
equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure
is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when=
key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it sh=
ould not do! Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming=
pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure
the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure th=
e new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to se=
e if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. A=
s far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not
Moss India knockoffs.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb of=
f for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's=
not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank</=
div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>
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