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Hank, I think replacing one component at a time might get you to a solution=
faster.
In a case not related I recently spent several days diagnosing a carburetor=
problem (surprisingly not SU) with no progress only to give up and check t=
he distributor. My new condenser was bad out of the box. Someone said that =
90 percent of carburetor problems are electrical. Case in point.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 554
________________________________
From: Hank Leach <gradea1@charter.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2024 11:15 PM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>; Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys@a=
utox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
Bill-this car is 588 just 30+ from your car so about the same age parts-ver=
y old. I just mentioned that I'm swapping the floats and needle valves per =
carb for a test check. The float lids, although the shut off point for the =
incoming fuel, do not affect the fuel going out the bottom of the bowl to t=
he carb body. I have a new NOS body and all new old stock gaskets, valves, =
etc.so I could "build" a new carburetor.
Being as anal as I am, I have put off that thought as I was trying to not u=
se replacements but rather all original parts on my car. Yes, some small cr=
acks in that old casting could be the cause. I may have to give in and repl=
ace the old duffer with the new item in the box. Hank
--------------------
From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink@msn.com>
To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>, <gradea1@charter.net=
>
Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:53 PM PST
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
Hank, Mike is correct that the jet needle is not intended to be a stopper f=
or the jet. In fact in theory it shouldn=92t even touch it. Considering tha=
t this appears to be a chronic problem on only one carburetor and with all =
you have attempted to correct it, it seems to me the problem is a defect in=
the carburetor itself. If the needle valve and float are in good condition=
and in adjustment the fuel level in the bowl and at the venturi bridge wil=
l never be high enough to run out of the jet. It seems that there is a flaw=
or a crack in or around the needle valve orifice that is allowing fuel to =
leak past the needle valve. Have you tried switching out the fuel bowl lid?=
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach via =
Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2024 8:28 PM
To: Healey team <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor =
overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but mu=
st be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of center an=
d piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to =
run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.
No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and =
replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet..=
.now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 ho=
ur job. Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time. Turn on key=
- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.
I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many times-=
that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking. I just=
cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a British =
Car.
Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with carb =
cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two places=
checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be b=
etween the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needle=
s are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am=
tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but =
ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the gar=
age and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.
I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass =
ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-als=
o new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally ab=
out 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but =
its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... bu=
t then tick, tick which it should not do! Fuel is going out and down the d=
rain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of th=
e needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but =
its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you=
, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these ar=
e "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off for=
that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not =
the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
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<head>
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252">
</head>
<body>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
Hank, I think replacing one component at a time might get you to a solution=
faster. </div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
In a case not related I recently spent several days diagnosing a carburetor=
problem (surprisingly not SU) with no progress only to give up and check t=
he distributor. My new condenser was bad out of the box. Someone said that =
90 percent of carburetor problems
are electrical. Case in point.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
BN1 554</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Hank Leach <gradea=
1@charter.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 22, 2024 11:15 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>; Hank Leach via Heale=
ys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> RE: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube</=
font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>
<div>Bill-this car is 588 just 30+ from your car so about the same age part=
s-very old. I just mentioned that I'm swapping the floats and needle valves=
per carb for a test check. The float lids, although the shut off point for=
the incoming fuel, do not affect
the fuel going out the bottom of the bowl to the carb body. I have a new N=
OS body and all new old stock gaskets, valves, etc.so I could "build&q=
uot; a new carburetor.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Being as anal as I am, I have put off that thought as I was trying to =
not use replacements but rather all original parts on my car. Yes, some sma=
ll cracks in that old casting could be the cause. I may have to give in and=
replace the old duffer with the
new item in the box. Hank<br>
-------------------- <br>
<br>
From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink@msn.com> <br>
To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>, <=
gradea1@charter.net> <br>
Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:53 PM PST <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube </div>
<div> </div>
<div style=3D"font-family:inherit; font-size:inherit; color:inherit; backgr=
ound-color:transparent">
Hank, Mike is correct that the jet needle is not intended to be a stopper f=
or the jet. In fact in theory it shouldn=92t even touch it. Considering tha=
t this appears to be a chronic problem on only one carburetor and with all =
you have attempted to correct it,
it seems to me the problem is a defect in the carburetor itself. If the ne=
edle valve and float are in good condition and in adjustment the fuel level=
in the bowl and at the venturi bridge will never be high enough to run out=
of the jet. It seems that there
is a flaw or a crack in or around the needle valve orifice that is allowin=
g fuel to leak past the needle valve. Have you tried switching out the fuel=
bowl lid? Hope this helps. Good luck.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:inherit; font-size:inherit; color:inherit; backgr=
ound-color:transparent">
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:inherit; font-size:inherit; color:inherit; backgr=
ound-color:transparent">
Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:inherit; font-size:inherit; color:inherit; backgr=
ound-color:transparent">
BN1 554</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:inherit; font-size:inherit; color:inherit; backgr=
ound-color:transparent">
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"x_divRplyFwdMsg"><strong>From:</strong> Healeys <healeys-boun=
ces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys@auto=
x.team.net><br>
<strong>Sent:</strong> Sunday, December 22, 2024 8:28 PM<br>
<strong>To:</strong> Healey team <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<strong>Subject:</strong> [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div> I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear c=
arburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple desi=
gn, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of=
center and piston is sticking up above
the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area a=
nd out overflow drain tube.
<div> </div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean=
and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center =
jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another=
4 hour job. Both carb pistons
drop with a clunk at the same time. Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-=
overflow again leaking. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many t=
imes-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.&nb=
sp; I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is =
a British Car. </div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with =
carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two p=
laces checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next =
leak could be between the needle and jet if
not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i =
also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually bo=
th needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid =
range. Problem is all testing stinks
up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in =
the rain.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple b=
rass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked le=
g-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are =
equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure
is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when=
key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it sh=
ould not do! Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming=
pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure
the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure th=
e new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to se=
e if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. A=
s far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not
Moss India knockoffs.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb of=
f for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's=
not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank</=
div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>
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