[Healeys] Looking for bracket
Bruce Peters
rv9aplane at gmail.com
Sat May 2 12:25:49 MDT 2020
Found one, thanks Perry!
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 2, 2020, at 11:02 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Looking for bracket (Bruce Peters)
> 2. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Bob Spidell)
> 3. Re: Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension (Chris Dimmock)
> 4. Re: Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension (Mark Donaldson)
> 5. Re: Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension (Chris Dimmock)
> 6. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> (warthodson at aol.com)
> 7. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Warren Dietz)
> 8. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Warren)
> 9. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Bob Spidell)
> 10. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Bruce Steele)
> 11. Re: Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension (Bruce Steele)
> 12. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Engl)
> 13. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Bob Spidell)
> 14. Re: 100M Head (Randy Hicks)
> 15. Re: 100M Head (Curtis Arndt)
> 16. Re: 100M Head (Michael MacLean)
> 17. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (i erbs)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 11:49:18 -0700
> From: Bruce Peters <rv9aplane at gmail.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Looking for bracket
> Message-ID: <F5274F1F-5F2D-4C23-A881-5DF36370EADC at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Hi all,
> I am looking for the Steering Column Mount Bracket for my BJ8. It is Key #202 in the Moss Catalogue on the Front Body Fittings page(page 128 in the Winter catalogue). Does anyone have one or know where I can find one? Thanks!
>
> Bruce
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 21:10:39 -0700
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <f15be44e-5c20-3a6e-796e-1407395d8037 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50;
> still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from
> before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some strange
> twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the
> shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on
> any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for
> free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy.
>
> Bob
>
>
>> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Thanks all.As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience
>> shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil
>> additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that
>> did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades
>> I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the
>> climate, etc. However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would
>> find another oil. I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell
>> having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it
>> no longer cleared some California rule changes. I wondered it this
>> happened to Red Line.
>>
>> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response
>> sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to
>> respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line
>> response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU
>> 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat
>> tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm
>> phosphorus.
>>
>> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half
>> bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil.It also has bit of
>> sulfur, 16.6 grams.I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could
>> result in too much.I am just not inclined to experiment.
>>
>> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for
>> tropical heat.However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a
>> much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on
>> the manufacturer.The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than
>> those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.
>>
>> I am confident using the 10W40.I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was
>> an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing
>> weather.There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me
>> to Red Line?s 10W40.The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an
>> upside for me to use a heavier oil.
>>
>> Many thanks to the folks who responded.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 15:07:23 +1000
> From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
> To: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
> Cc: alfuller194 at gmail.com, Mark Donaldson
> <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>, healeylist <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
> Message-ID: <442B8B93-8FDD-4AB9-A6EE-370FED718CFA at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe.
>
>
>
>> On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big.
>> What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation.
>> rg
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: alfuller194 at gmail.com
>> To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>, 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>, 'healeylist' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT)
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>>
>> Hi Bruce ? maybe you can share with us how you did this:
>>
>> [1] Do the pedal pads mount to the stock pedal arms, or require modification? I was also going to ask for the source, but they appear to say ?DWR? on them, so maybe I already know ?;
>>
>> [2] A while back you shared the look of your sisal mats. That pic shows that you refined your dead pedal from the prior aluminum box to something better ? how does the dead pedal work?
>>
>>
>>
>> ----------------
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Al Fuller
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson
>> Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 6:58 AM
>> To: 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; 'healeylist' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce,
>>
>>
>>
>> In your second photo I see what appears to be a Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension. I had one on my 1961 Austin-Cooper many years ago.
>>
>> Being bigger than the stock accelerator size, does it improve things ? like heel and toeing?
>>
>> I assume it fits neatly over the pedal as it appears, from memory, to be the same size as in the Mini Cooper.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>> Ardmore
>>
>> NZ
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
>> Sent: Monday, 27 April 2020 2:40 a.m.
>> To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com; 'healeylist' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights
>>
>>
>>
>> Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me:
>>
>> 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control, which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps. Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel. Hint: It is Healey related.
>>
>> 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce Steele
>>
>> Brea, CA
>>
>> 1960 BN7
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via Healeys
>>
>> Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 1:47 PM
>>
>> To: healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Lights
>>
>>
>>
>> So , when idle times come . What do we do to fill the void ? . My project has been to install LED light strips under the dash of my 67 BJ 8 . Looks good . Easily removed. Hidden switch. Extra lighting can?t hurt in our cars . And our sights can always use extra lights . All for under $20 .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
>>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 17:31:23 +1200
> From: "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
> To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <austin.healey at gmail.com>, "'Roger Grace'"
> <roggrace at telus.net>
> Cc: <alfuller194 at gmail.com>, "'healeylist'" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
> Message-ID: <000401d62042$ec6a5410$c53efc30$@xtra.co.nz>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Chris, Can you show us a bit more of your accelerator pedal and drop arm?
>
> And what is the round piece at the base of the accelerator pedal ? a heel rest perhaps, or part of the pedal?
>
>
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, 2 May 2020 5:07 p.m.
> To: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
> Cc: alfuller194 at gmail.com; Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; healeylist <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>
>
>
> I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net <mailto:roggrace at telus.net> > wrote:
>
> ?
>
> I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big.
>
> What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation.
>
> rg
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com>
> To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> >, 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> >, 'healeylist' <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >
> Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>
>
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 16:53:51 +1000
> From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
> To: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
> Cc: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>, alfuller194 at gmail.com,
> healeylist <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
> Message-ID: <151156C5-16D2-4D90-A620-A6D70B2D108B at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hi Mark,
> I?ll take some More pics on Monday.
> It?s pretty much the standard healey arm, but set up for a cable.
> The round piece underneath is an adjustable throttle stop I made, to stop me stretching the accelerator cable. ?
> Best
> Chris
>
>> On 2 May 2020, at 3:31 pm, Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Chris, Can you show us a bit more of your accelerator pedal and drop arm?
>> And what is the round piece at the base of the accelerator pedal ? a heel rest perhaps, or part of the pedal?
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, 2 May 2020 5:07 p.m.
>> To: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
>> Cc: alfuller194 at gmail.com; Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; healeylist <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>>
>> I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe.
>>
>> <image003.jpg>
>>
>>
>> On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big.
>> What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation.
>> rg
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: alfuller194 at gmail.com
>> To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>, 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>, 'healeylist' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT)
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 13:32:48 +0000 (UTC)
> From: warthodson at aol.com
> To: "bspidell at comcast.net" <bspidell at comcast.net>,
> "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <808646171.146400.1588426368901 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway.?Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
>
> Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either.? I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote:
>
>
> Hi,? Thanks all.? As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. ?What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. ?For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. ?However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. ?I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. ?I wondered it this happened to Red Line. ? So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. ?The Healey group was much faster to respond. ?While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. ?The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's fl
> at tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus.
>
> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil.? It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams.? I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much.? I am just not inclined to experiment. ? The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat.? However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer.? The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.? ? I am confident using the 10W40.? I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather.? There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40.? The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. ? Many thanks to the folks who responded.? ? Bill
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 10:02:13 -0400
> From: Warren Dietz <flyhihealey at gmail.com>
> To: warthodson at aol.com
> Cc: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>, Healey List
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID:
> <CACpcE-_bLhQT4gAyUKjTLgjgActauv=Hvc6F0v9Vr5y4FocDmw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Amazon -$76.11 (?) for 3 5gal VR 1 20/50.
>
> On Sat, May 2, 2020, 9:33 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site
>> was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next
>> best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
>>
>> Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50;
>> still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before
>> refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few
>> years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never
>> got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house
>> shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than
>> $4/qt I'll be happy.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>> Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience
>> shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives
>> was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not
>> display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have
>> used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc.
>> However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I
>> also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet
>> for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California
>> rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line.
>>
>> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response
>> sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to
>> respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line
>> response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU
>> 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet
>> cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus.
>>
>> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle
>> is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6
>> grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too
>> much. I am just not inclined to experiment.
>>
>> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical
>> heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more
>> expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the
>> manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those
>> available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.
>>
>> I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was
>> an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There
>> were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s
>> 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to
>> use a heavier oil.
>>
>> Many thanks to the folks who responded.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/flyhihealey@gmail.com
>>
>>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 10:13:49 -0400
> From: Warren <flyhihealey at gmail.com>
> To: "warthodson at aol.com" <warthodson at aol.com>, "bspidell at comcast.net"
> <bspidell at comcast.net>, "healeys at autox.team.net"
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <5ead8021.1c69fb81.9cdd9.bbce at mx.google.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 08:05:18 -0700
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: warthodson at aol.com, "healeys at autox.team.net"
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <45578790-71c2-9c65-e0d7-10476635fc90 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-Pack-Valvoline-VR1-Racing-SAE-20W-50-Conventional-Motor-Oil-1-Quart/384213070?selected=true
>
> You order the '2-pack' for $8.76--$4.38/qt--but, unfortunately, it's OOS
> for now (was available a couple days ago).
>
>
>
>> On 5/2/2020 6:32 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>> The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's
>> site was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is.
>> The next best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
>>
>> Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1
>> 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought
>> from before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some
>> strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull
>> it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either.? I
>> haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as
>> Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote:
>>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 08:24:28 -0700
> From: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
> To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell at comcast.net>, <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <06b701d62095$c73bf6a0$55b3e3e0$@roadrunner.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> My local NAPA carries VR1 20W50 and told me there are no problems selling it in CA.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Friday, May 01, 2020 9:11 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
>
>
>
> Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line.
>
>
>
> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus.
>
>
>
>
> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much. I am just not inclined to experiment.
>
>
>
> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.
>
>
>
> I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil.
>
>
>
> Many thanks to the folks who responded.
>
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 08:28:53 -0700
> From: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
> To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <austin.healey at gmail.com>, "'Roger Grace'"
> <roggrace at telus.net>
> Cc: "'Mark Donaldson'" <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>, "'healeylist'"
> <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
> Message-ID: <06d901d62096$65b1e970$3115bc50$@roadrunner.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I presume you also polished your DWR pedals. I was quite surprised that they arrived with little finishing. This offset idea is great.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock
> Sent: Friday, May 01, 2020 10:07 PM
> To: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
> Cc: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; healeylist <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>
>
>
> I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net <mailto:roggrace at telus.net> > wrote:
>
> ?
>
> I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big.
>
> What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation.
>
> rg
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com>
> To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> >, 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> >, 'healeylist' <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >
> Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> @font-face
> {font-family:"Cambria Math";
> panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
> @font-face
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>
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> {mso-style-type:personal-compose;
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> div.WordSection1
> {page:WordSection1;}
> -->
>
> Hi Bruce ? maybe you can share with us how you did this:
>
> [1] Do the pedal pads mount to the stock pedal arms, or require modification? I was also going to ask for the source, but they appear to say ?DWR? on them, so maybe I already know ?;
>
> [2] A while back you shared the look of your sisal mats. That pic shows that you refined your dead pedal from the prior aluminum box to something better ? how does the dead pedal work?
>
>
>
> ----------------
>
> All the best,
>
> Al Fuller
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson
> Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 6:58 AM
> To: 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> >; 'healeylist' <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >
> Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>
>
>
> Bruce,
>
>
>
> In your second photo I see what appears to be a Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension. I had one on my 1961 Austin-Cooper many years ago.
>
> Being bigger than the stock accelerator size, does it improve things ? like heel and toeing?
>
> I assume it fits neatly over the pedal as it appears, from memory, to be the same size as in the Mini Cooper.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> Ardmore
>
> NZ
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> >
> Sent: Monday, 27 April 2020 2:40 a.m.
> To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com <mailto:fsufan1952 at yahoo.com> ; 'healeylist' <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights
>
>
>
> Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me:
>
> 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control, which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps. Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel. Hint: It is Healey related.
>
> 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Healeys [ <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via Healeys
>
> Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 1:47 PM
>
> To: healey list < <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> healeys at autox.team.net>
>
> Subject: [Healeys] Lights
>
>
>
> So , when idle times come . What do we do to fill the void ? . My project has been to install LED light strips under the dash of my 67 BJ 8 . Looks good . Easily removed. Hidden switch. Extra lighting can?t hurt in our cars . And our sights can always use extra lights . All for under $20 .
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 09:33:18 -0600
> From: Engl <engl at accesscomm.ca>
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <18633626-FD3B-456E-AEDC-6C1BB93C5732 at accesscomm.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Has anyone used Camoil? It sounds real good, but I?ve not come across anyone who has used it.
>
> https://www.camoils.com
>
> BobE
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 09:00:58 -0700
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <eb500b12-02f7-69a4-3f73-0aac271add77 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> Not me, but I don't think I'd have any qualms using it (unless it's
> majorly expensive; oil change frequency is at least as important as oil
> brand/grade/type). Seems similar to something in use in the aviation
> community for a long time: https://cessnaowner.org/camguard/ (but this
> IS an additive).
>
> I used to put miracle elixirs in my oil and gas--yes, I even tried the
> infamous 'Slick 50,' possibly the product that started the additive rage
> (maybe it was 'STP?')--but now I figure it's best to use
> namebrand/TopTier gas and a reputable oil and change it often. From what
> I can tell, quite a few Healey owners use VR-1, and I don't recall
> anyone having an issue with it (doesn't mean it hasn't happened).
>
> Not an additive, but I put an aftermarket oil/air separator ('catch
> can') on my Mustang GT, and I'm glad I did; it catches about a teaspoon
> of oil every thousand miles.? That oil would otherwise gunk up the
> intake manifold (engine has both port and direct injection, but neither
> helps keep the manifold clean).? Note this isn't a problem with a stock
> Healey, as the SUs dump plenty of raw gas into the manifold (they even
> need drains for the excess!).
>
> Bob
>
>
>> On 5/2/2020 8:33 AM, Engl wrote:
>> Has anyone used Camoil? ?It sounds real good, but I?ve not come across
>> anyone who has used it.
>>
>> https://www.camoils.com <https://www.camoils.com/index.php>
>>
>> BobE
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 14:11:07 -0400
> From: Randy Hicks <healey100m at gmail.com>
> To: Curt Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
> Cc: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>, Michael MacLean
> <rrengineer.mike at att.net>, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>, Healey
> List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Head
> Message-ID: <A7E6E978-F988-4A70-921F-B0FCCE90F315 at me.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> The 100M camshafts were also numbered, Either 1B2892 or 1B2895.
>
> Randy
>
>> On Apr 30, 2020, at 1:38 PM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> No they did not number engine parts other than the engine number (easily removable aluminum tag) on the block should match the chassis number.
>>
>> Now the "M" distributors also had unique part numbers (there were two types) and of course the H-6 carburetors were also numbered, either AUC-6040 X or 6040 AA with of course the appropriate hand etched numbers 6047 and 6053 respectively.
>>
>> Also on a somewhat related subject, a recent thread stated that supposedly some "M" carburetors only had the number 6040 with no suffix. However, I doubt that assertion as I have never seen any originals numbered as such, and two other members of the Concours Committee (both 100M experts) that I've spoken to say that they have never seen Factory "M" carburetors with just a 6040 number. I'm 65 and these two members are 15 years older than me, with a lot more experience.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Curt
>> Op 30-4-2020 om 07:32 schreef Michael MacLean:
>>
>>>
>>> When I bought this head from my restorer friend that has passed, he told me it was off a 100M. A valve stem had bent on startup and the valve, valve guide and the hole for the valve guide were damaged. When I was putting seals on the valves I noticed one of the valve guides was larger in diameter than the rest. This was the repaired valve and guide. Luckily it is an exhaust valve so a seal of the type i am using did not need to be fit over it. My question is, a lot of the body parts were stamped with the chassis number on a 100M. Did they also number engine parts? This head had been cracked in the past and repaired correctly. See the " X" welded into the top of the head in the picture.
>>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@me.com
>>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 12:28:43 -0700
> From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
> To: Randy Hicks <healey100m at gmail.com>
> Cc: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>, Michael MacLean
> <rrengineer.mike at att.net>, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>, Healey
> List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Head
> Message-ID:
> <CAJKrNeRuCisiaiCyySp_p7dnGCf9rp+e+AsSnCpOZAFyoSZLUg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Thanks for the info, and I did know that, but just talking about parts that
> the average restorer/judge can see.
>
>> On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 11:11 AM Randy Hicks <healey100m at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> The 100M camshafts were also numbered, Either 1B2892 or 1B2895.
>>
>> Randy
>>
>> On Apr 30, 2020, at 1:38 PM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> No they did not number engine parts other than the engine number (easily
>> removable aluminum tag) on the block should match the chassis number.
>>
>> Now the "M" distributors also had unique part numbers (there were two
>> types) and of course the H-6 carburetors were also numbered, either
>> AUC-6040 X or 6040 AA with of course the appropriate hand etched numbers
>> 6047 and 6053 respectively.
>>
>> Also on a somewhat related subject, a recent thread stated that
>> supposedly some "M" carburetors only had the number 6040 with no suffix.
>> However, I doubt that assertion as I have never seen any originals numbered
>> as such, and two other members of the Concours Committee (both 100M
>> experts) that I've spoken to say that they have never seen Factory "M"
>> carburetors with just a 6040 number. I'm 65 and these two members are 15
>> years older than me, with a lot more experience.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Curt
>>
>>> Op 30-4-2020 om 07:32 schreef Michael MacLean:
>>>
>>>
>>> When I bought this head from my restorer friend that has passed, he told
>>> me it was off a 100M. A valve stem had bent on startup and the valve,
>>> valve guide and the hole for the valve guide were damaged. When I was
>>> putting seals on the valves I noticed one of the valve guides was larger in
>>> diameter than the rest. This was the repaired valve and guide. Luckily it
>>> is an exhaust valve so a seal of the type i am using did not need to be fit
>>> over it. My question is, a lot of the body parts were stamped with the
>>> chassis number on a 100M. Did they also number engine parts? This head
>>> had been cracked in the past and repaired correctly. See the " X" welded
>>> into the top of the head in the picture.
>>> Mike MacLean
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@me.com
>>
>>
>>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 19:39:14 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> To: Randy Hicks <healey100m at gmail.com>, Curtis Arndt
> <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
> Cc: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>, Bob Spidell
> <bspidell at comcast.net>, Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Head
> Message-ID: <1013287564.29073.1588275554710 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> OK, I'm getting an education here too.? So, what is the number stamped into the top flange of the head in the picture?? Also Kees mention I have the wrong washer under the head nut.? Someone needs to tell Moss then, that's the one they sold me for that purpose.Mike MacLean?
>
> On Thursday, April 30, 2020, 12:28:54 PM PDT, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the info, and I did know that, but just talking about parts that the average restorer/judge can see.
>
> On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 11:11 AM Randy Hicks <healey100m at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The 100M camshafts were also numbered, Either 1B2892 or 1B2895.
> Randy
>
>
> On Apr 30, 2020, at 1:38 PM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
> Mike,
> No they did not number engine parts other than the engine?number (easily removable aluminum tag) on the block should match the chassis number.??
> Now the "M" distributors also had unique part numbers (there were two types) and of course the H-6 carburetors were also numbered, either AUC-6040 X or 6040 AA with of course the appropriate?hand etched numbers 6047 and 6053 respectively.
> Also on a somewhat related?subject, a recent thread stated that supposedly?some "M" carburetors only had the number 6040 with no suffix. However, I doubt that assertion as I have never seen any originals numbered as such, and two other members of the Concours?Committee?(both 100M experts) that I've spoken to say that they have never?seen Factory "M" carburetors with just a 6040 number.? I'm 65 and these two members are 15 years older than me, with a lot more experience.
> Cheers,
> Curt
>
> Op 30-4-2020 om 07:32 schreef Michael MacLean:
>
>
>
> When I bought this head from my restorer friend that has passed, he told me it was off a 100M.? A valve stem had bent on startup and the valve, valve guide and the hole for the valve guide were damaged.? When I was putting seals on the valves I noticed one of the valve guides was larger in diameter than the rest.? This was the repaired valve and guide.? Luckily it is an exhaust valve so a seal of the type i am using did not need to be fit over it.? My question is, a lot of the body parts were stamped with the chassis number on a 100M.? Did they also number engine parts?? This head had been cracked in the past and repaired correctly.? See the " X" welded into the top of the head in the picture. Mike MacLean
>
>
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> Message: 17
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 10:53:16 -0700
> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID:
> <CABXhz88tdTdzh3AWOOMav-gwz-VhNY0zX0ndgFN9GRtPpOn7zw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> This came across my feed yesterday. seemed to be timely posted
> https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/new_oil_and_old_cars. A history
> of engine oil development
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> _______ _______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
> On Fri, May 1, 2020 at 10:38 AM wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience
>> shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives
>> was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not
>> display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have
>> used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc.
>> However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I
>> also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet
>> for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California
>> rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line.
>>
>>
>>
>> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response
>> sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to
>> respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line
>> response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU
>> 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet
>> cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus.
>>
>> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle
>> is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6
>> grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too
>> much. I am just not inclined to experiment.
>>
>>
>>
>> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical
>> heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more
>> expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the
>> manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those
>> available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was
>> an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There
>> were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s
>> 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to
>> use a heavier oil.
>>
>>
>>
>> Many thanks to the folks who responded.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
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