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simply measure ohms from the WHT wire at the ignition switch to the +
(plus)Â wire for your ignition coil.
If you do not have a VERY low ohm reading, (< .5 ohms) the harness
itself has the built in resistance wire designed for the 1.5ohm or so
coil use
(vs the separate ceramic resistor usually mounted near the coil).
...speaking of which, you can get rid of that resistor and just use a 3
ohm coil if you do not have an elec box for the distributor
(straight old style points in use)
ptegler
On 4/10/2023 1:02 PM, Brad Kahler wrote:
> Alex,
>
> If I remember correctly it was only the later TR6s that had the
> resistors installed. I'm certain mine doesn't have that feature.
>
> I'll know for sure once I start the engine up in a few weeks!
>
> Brad
>
> On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:40â?¯PM Alex & Janet Thomson
> <aljlthomson@charter.net> wrote:
>
> Don't forget that there may be a resistance wire in the feed
> circuit to the coil which limits voltage and available current. I
> found out the hard way when We had a Pertronix ignition set-up
> being fed by the coil wire. That low voltage starved the Pertronix
> unit twice before I realized what the issue was.
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Randy and Valerie DeRuiter
> Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2023 5:31 PM
> To: Brad Kahler
> Cc: Triumphs
> Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)
>
> Brad
>
> I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and Iâ??m fairly
> certain that needs to be switched power to the unit. I donâ??t have
> a wiring diagram handy but you may be ok adding the small brown
> wire to the same terminal as the large brown wire - and run a
> separate connection for the switch power. The positive coil
> terminal could be a convenient place.
>
> Randy
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my
> TR6Â Here's the configuration:
> >
> > 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire
> > 2) New wiring harness from TRF
> > 3) Positive cable connected to battery
> > 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with
> a small amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the
> fuse will blow before damaging anything and I can read the current
> draw if/until the fuse blows)
> > 5) White wire at distributor disconnected
> > 6) No dash instruments connected
> > 7) Rear harness not installed yet
> > 8) TBI power connector not connected
> > 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected
> > 10) Alternator connected
> > 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place
> >
> >
> > When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp
> draw. When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator
> the current draw disappears.
> >
> > The wires area connected as follows. The brown/yellow wire goes
> to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.
> >
> > The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the
> alternator called "switched live" from the battery. Currently the
> small brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph
> design. If the "switched live' note means the brown wire is
> supposed to be cold when the ignition switch is off then that is
> likely the problem.
> >
> > All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the
> ignition switch on position and only live when the ignition is
> on. I don't have any way to really test my theory because I
> haven't got the engine running yet and won't for a few weeks. I'd
> like to resolve this before I go much further with the wiring install.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Brad
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville@hotmail.com
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net
>
>
> **triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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--
Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net www.teglerizer.com
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<p>simply measure ohms from the WHT wire at the ignition switch to
the + (plus) wire for your ignition coil.<br>
If you do not have a VERY low ohm reading, (< .5 ohms) the
harness itself has the built in resistance wire designed for the
1.5ohm or so coil use<br>
(vs the separate ceramic resistor usually mounted near the coil).<br>
...speaking of which, you can get rid of that resistor and just
use a 3 ohm coil if you do not have an elec box for the
distributor<br>
(straight old style points in use)</p>
<p>ptegler<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/10/2023 1:02 PM, Brad Kahler
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CADm3DLFne_daZiDLvoF5pX94Hhzv+StkmPLLOuOkc_17wsgv5Q@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Alex,  </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>If I remember correctly it was only the later TR6s that had
the resistors installed. I'm certain mine doesn't have that
feature.  </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I'll know for sure once I start the engine up in a few
weeks!</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Brad</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at
6:40â?¯PM Alex & Janet Thomson <<a
href="mailto:aljlthomson@charter.net"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">aljlthomson@charter.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Don't forget that there
may be a resistance wire in the feed circuit to the coil
which limits voltage and available current. I found out the
hard way when We had a Pertronix ignition set-up being fed
by the coil wire. That low voltage starved the Pertronix
unit twice before I realized what the issue was.<br>
<br>
Alex Thomson<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Triumphs [mailto:<a
href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
On Behalf Of Randy and Valerie DeRuiter<br>
Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2023 5:31 PM<br>
To: Brad Kahler<br>
Cc: Triumphs<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)<br>
<br>
Brad<br>
<br>
I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and Iâ??m
fairly certain that needs to be switched power to the unit.Â
I donâ??t have a wiring diagram handy but you may be ok adding
the small brown wire to the same terminal as the large brown
wire - and run a separate connection for the switch power.Â
The positive coil terminal could be a convenient place.<br>
<br>
Randy<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPad<br>
<br>
> On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler <<a
href="mailto:bkahler1@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bkahler1@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new
wiring in my TR6Â Here's the configuration:<br>
> <br>
> 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire <br>
> 2) New wiring harness from TRF<br>
> 3) Positive cable connected to battery<br>
> 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse
inserted with a small amp meter (this way if a short occurs
while testing the fuse will blow before damaging anything
and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse blows)<br>
> 5) White wire at distributor disconnected<br>
> 6) No dash instruments connected<br>
> 7) Rear harness not installed yet<br>
> 8) TBI power connector not connected<br>
> 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected <br>
> 10) Alternator connected<br>
> 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a
4 amp draw. When I disconnect the small brown wire on the
alternator the current draw disappears. <br>
> <br>
> The wires area connected as follows. The brown/yellow
wire goes to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash
light. <br>
> <br>
> The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on
the alternator called "switched live" from the battery.Â
Currently the small brown wire is always live from the
battery per Triumph design. If the "switched live' note
means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the
ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem. <br>
> <br>
> All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from
the ignition switch on position and only live when the
ignition is on. I don't have any way to really test my
theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and
won't for a few weeks. I'd like to resolve this before I go
much further with the wiring install.<br>
> <br>
> Thanks,<br>
> <br>
> Brad<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> ** <a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>
**<br>
> <br>
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</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
<pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
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<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">--
Paul Tegler
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net">ptegler@verizon.net</a> <a
class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://www.teglerizer.com">www.teglerizer.com</a></pre>
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