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Hi Randy,
I used a 3-wire Denso a bunch of years ago and thought I wired it hot all
the time but it's obvious that I'm wrong on that. I like the idea of
pulling ignition power off the coil and connecting the small brown with the
large brown wire. Beats running a wire all the way over to the fuse box.
I've made changes to the wiring but I'm trying to not modify the new TRF
harness. You never know when you might want to revert back to stock.
Thanks.
Brad
On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 5:31=E2=80=AFPM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <
deruiterville@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Brad
>
> I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I=E2=80=99m fairl=
y certain
> that needs to be switched power to the unit. I don=E2=80=99t have a wiri=
ng diagram
> handy but you may be ok adding the small brown wire to the same terminal =
as
> the large brown wire - and run a separate connection for the switch power=
.
> The positive coil terminal could be a convenient place.
>
> Randy
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > =EF=BB=BF
> > I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.
> Here's the configuration:
> >
> > 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire
> > 2) New wiring harness from TRF
> > 3) Positive cable connected to battery
> > 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a smal=
l
> amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow
> before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fus=
e
> blows)
> > 5) White wire at distributor disconnected
> > 6) No dash instruments connected
> > 7) Rear harness not installed yet
> > 8) TBI power connector not connected
> > 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected
> > 10) Alternator connected
> > 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place
> >
> >
> > When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.
> When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw
> disappears.
> >
> > The wires area connected as follows. The brown/yellow wire goes to the
> (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.
> >
> > The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator
> called "switched live" from the battery. Currently the small brown wire =
is
> always live from the battery per Triumph design. If the "switched live'
> note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch
> is off then that is likely the problem.
> >
> > All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switc=
h
> on position and only live when the ignition is on. I don't have any way =
to
> really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and
> won't for a few weeks. I'd like to resolve this before I go much further
> with the wiring install.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Brad
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville@hotmail.com
>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Hi Randy,</div><div><br></div><div>I used a 3-wire De=
nso a bunch of years ago and thought I wired it hot all the time but it'=
;s obvious that I'm wrong on that.=C2=A0 I like the idea of pulling ign=
ition power off the coil and connecting the small brown with the large brow=
n wire.=C2=A0 Beats running a wire all the way over to the fuse box.</div><=
div><br></div><div>I've made changes to the wiring but I'm trying t=
o not modify the new TRF harness.=C2=A0 You never know when you might want =
to revert back to stock.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks.</div><div><br></d=
iv><div>Brad</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quo=
te"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 5:31=E2=80=
=AFPM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <<a href=3D"mailto:deruiterville@hotmai=
l.com">deruiterville@hotmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rg=
b(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Brad<br>
<br>
I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I=E2=80=99m fairly =
certain that needs to be switched power to the unit.=C2=A0 I don=E2=80=99t =
have a wiring diagram handy but you may be ok adding the small brown wire t=
o the same terminal as the large brown wire - and run a separate connection=
for the switch power.=C2=A0 The positive coil terminal could be a convenie=
nt place.<br>
<br>
Randy<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPad<br>
<br>
> On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler <<a href=3D"mailto:bkahler1=
@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">bkahler1@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> =EF=BB=BF<br>
> I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6=
.=C2=A0 Here's the configuration:<br>
> <br>
> 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire <br>
> 2) New wiring harness from TRF<br>
> 3) Positive cable connected to battery<br>
> 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a sma=
ll amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow b=
efore damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse b=
lows)<br>
> 5) White wire at distributor disconnected<br>
> 6) No dash instruments connected<br>
> 7) Rear harness not installed yet<br>
> 8) TBI power connector not connected<br>
> 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected <br>
> 10) Alternator connected<br>
> 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.=C2=
=A0 When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current dr=
aw disappears. <br>
> <br>
> The wires area connected as follows.=C2=A0 The brown/yellow wire goes =
to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.=C2=A0 <br>
> <br>
> The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator=
called "switched live" from the battery.=C2=A0 Currently the sma=
ll brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.=C2=A0 If =
the "switched live' note means the brown wire is supposed to be co=
ld when the ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.=C2=A0 <=
br>
> <br>
> All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition swit=
ch on position and only live when the ignition is on.=C2=A0 I don't hav=
e any way to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine run=
ning yet and won't for a few weeks.=C2=A0 I'd like to resolve this =
before I go much further with the wiring install.<br>
> <br>
> Thanks,<br>
> <br>
> Brad<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> ** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">triump=
hs@autox.team.net</a> **<br>
> <br>
> Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; rel=3D"noreferrer"=
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs"; rel=3D"nor=
eferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=C2=A0=
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blan=
k">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
> <br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/t=
riumphs/deruiterville@hotmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville@hotmail.com</a><b=
r>
</blockquote></div></div>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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