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I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6. Here's
the configuration:
1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire
2) New wiring harness from TRF
3) Positive cable connected to battery
4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small
amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow
before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse
blows)
5) White wire at distributor disconnected
6) No dash instruments connected
7) Rear harness not installed yet
8) TBI power connector not connected
9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected
10) Alternator connected
11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place
When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw. When I
disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw
disappears.
The wires area connected as follows. The brown/yellow wire goes to the (1)
connector on the alternator for dash light.
The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator
called "switched live" from the battery. Currently the small brown wire is
always live from the battery per Triumph design. If the "switched live'
note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch
is off then that is likely the problem.
All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch on
position and only live when the ignition is on. I don't have any way to
really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and
won't for a few weeks. I'd like to resolve this before I go much further
with the wiring install.
Thanks,
Brad
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<div dir=3D"ltr">I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiri=
ng in my TR6.=C2=A0 Here's the configuration:<div><br></div><div>1) Min=
i Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire=C2=A0</div><div>2) New wiring harness from=
TRF</div><div>3) Positive=C2=A0cable connected to battery</div><div>4) Bet=
ween negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small amp mete=
r (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow before damag=
ing anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse blows)</div>=
<div>5) White wire at distributor disconnected</div><div>6) No dash instrum=
ents connected</div><div>7) Rear harness not installed yet</div><div>8) TBI=
power connector not connected</div><div>9) Harness in engine compartment m=
ostly connected=C2=A0</div><div>10) Alternator connected</div><div>11) Fuse=
between brown and purple wires is NOT in place</div><div><br></div><div><b=
r></div><div>When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp =
draw.=C2=A0 When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the cu=
rrent draw disappears.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>The wires area connec=
ted as follows.=C2=A0 The brown/yellow wire goes to the (1) connector on th=
e alternator for dash light.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>The small=
solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator called "=
switched live" from the battery.=C2=A0 Currently the small brown wire =
is always live from the battery per Triumph design.=C2=A0 If the "swit=
ched live' note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ig=
nition switch is off then that is likely the problem.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div=
><br></div><div>All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ig=
nition switch on position and only live when the ignition is on.=C2=A0 I do=
n't have any way to really test my theory because I haven't got the=
engine running yet and won't for a few weeks.=C2=A0 I'd like to re=
solve this before I go much further with the wiring install.</div><div><br>=
</div><div>Thanks,</div><div><br></div><div>Brad</div><div><br></div><div><=
br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div>
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