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I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if it uses the same regulator=
as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light connected the regulator w=
ill turn on and try to generate current even though the alternator is not t=
urning.=C2=A0 That four amps is the field current.=C2=A0 Applying power to =
the IGN light will cause current to flow into the regulator which turns eve=
rything on.=C2=A0 In normal operation, switching the key off will break thi=
s feed and the regulator will shut off.
This works quite differently than the boot-strap operation with which we ar=
e more familiar and is typical of alternators of our vintage.
But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and this may not be the ca=
se. But that is where I would start.
=20
Dave=20
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.=C2=A0 H=
ere's the configuration:
1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire=C2=A02) New wiring harness from TRF3=
) Positive=C2=A0cable connected to battery4) Between negative cable and gro=
und I have a fuse inserted with a small amp meter (this way if a short occu=
rs while testing the fuse will blow before damaging anything and I can read=
the current draw if/until the fuse blows)5) White wire at distributor disc=
onnected6) No dash instruments connected7) Rear harness not installed yet8)=
TBI power connector not connected9) Harness in engine compartment mostly c=
onnected=C2=A010) Alternator connected11) Fuse between brown and purple wir=
es is NOT in place
When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.=C2=A0 W=
hen I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw di=
sappears.=C2=A0
The wires area connected as follows.=C2=A0 The brown/yellow wire goes to th=
e (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.=C2=A0=C2=A0
The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator call=
ed "switched live" from the battery.=C2=A0 Currently the small brown wire i=
s always live from the battery per Triumph design.=C2=A0 If the "switched l=
ive' note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition swi=
tch is off then that is likely the problem.=C2=A0=C2=A0
All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch on=
position and only live when the ignition is on.=C2=A0 I don't have any way=
to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and =
won't for a few weeks.=C2=A0 I'd like to resolve this before I go much furt=
her with the wiring install.
Thanks,
Brad
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0 http://www.team.net/a=
rchive
sey@cs.com
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<div style="color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size="3">I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if it uses
the same regulator as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light connected
the regulator will turn on and try to generate current even though the
alternator is not turning. That four amps is the field current.
Applying power to the IGN light will cause current to flow into the regulator
which turns everything on. In normal operation, switching the key off
will break this feed and the regulator will shut off.</font></div>
<div><font size="3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size="3">This works quite differently than the boot-strap operation
with which we are more familiar and is typical of alternators of our
vintage.</font></div>
<div><font size="3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size="3">But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and this
may not be the case. But that is where I would start.<br>
</font></div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style="clear:both">
<div style="color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div style="color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div><font size="4">Dave <br>
</font></div>
<div><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><br>
</span></div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font
size="2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com><br>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm<br>
Subject: [TR] (no subject)<br>
<br>
<div id="yiv0856585115">
<div dir="ltr">I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my
TR6. Here's the configuration:
<div><br>
</div>
<div>1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire </div>
<div>2) New wiring harness from TRF</div>
<div>3) Positive cable connected to battery</div>
<div>4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small
amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow before
damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse blows)</div>
<div>5) White wire at distributor disconnected</div>
<div>6) No dash instruments connected</div>
<div>7) Rear harness not installed yet</div>
<div>8) TBI power connector not connected</div>
<div>9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected </div>
<div>10) Alternator connected</div>
<div>11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.
When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw
disappears. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The wires area connected as follows. The brown/yellow wire goes to
the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator
called "switched live" from the battery. Currently the small brown wire
is always live from the battery per Triumph design. If the "switched
live' note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch
is off then that is likely the problem. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch
on position and only live when the ignition is on. I don't have any way
to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and won't
for a few weeks. I'd like to resolve this before I go much further with
the wiring install.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Brad</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
** <a ymailto="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br>
<br>
Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs";
target="_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> <a
href="http://www.team.net/archive";
target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
</font></div>
</div>
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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