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Morning Dave,
Thanks for the explanation as to why it's drawing 4 amps. After more
research there is a Denso alternator that is a 4-wire connection just like
the Lucas alternators. If I had bought that alternator I wouldn't have a
problem with the always hot brown wire. I'm going to do what others have
suggested and just connect the small brown wire to the big brown wire and
find a source of ignition (white wire). There are two choices in the
engine compartment, the distributor and the fuse box. I'll look things
over today to see what it's going to take.
Hope to see you later this year :)
Brad
On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:33=E2=80=AFPM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com> wr=
ote:
> I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if it uses the same regulato=
r
> as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light connected the regulator
> will turn on and try to generate current even though the alternator is no=
t
> turning. That four amps is the field current. Applying power to the IGN
> light will cause current to flow into the regulator which turns everythin=
g
> on. In normal operation, switching the key off will break this feed and
> the regulator will shut off.
>
> This works quite differently than the boot-strap operation with which we
> are more familiar and is typical of alternators of our vintage.
>
> But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and this may not be the
> case. But that is where I would start.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
> To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm
> Subject: [TR] (no subject)
>
> I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.
> Here's the configuration:
>
> 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire
> 2) New wiring harness from TRF
> 3) Positive cable connected to battery
> 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small
> amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow
> before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fus=
e
> blows)
> 5) White wire at distributor disconnected
> 6) No dash instruments connected
> 7) Rear harness not installed yet
> 8) TBI power connector not connected
> 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected
> 10) Alternator connected
> 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place
>
>
> When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw. When
> I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw
> disappears.
>
> The wires area connected as follows. The brown/yellow wire goes to the
> (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.
>
> The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator
> called "switched live" from the battery. Currently the small brown wire =
is
> always live from the battery per Triumph design. If the "switched live'
> note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch
> is off then that is likely the problem.
>
> All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch
> on position and only live when the ignition is on. I don't have any way =
to
> really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and
> won't for a few weeks. I'd like to resolve this before I go much further
> with the wiring install.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
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>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Morning Dave,</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks for the=
explanation=C2=A0as to why it's drawing 4 amps.=C2=A0 After more resea=
rch there is a Denso alternator that is a 4-wire connection just like the L=
ucas alternators.=C2=A0 If I had bought that alternator I wouldn't have=
a problem with the always hot brown wire.=C2=A0 I'm going to do what o=
thers have suggested and just connect the small brown wire to the big brown=
wire and find a source of ignition (white wire).=C2=A0 There are two choic=
es in the engine compartment, the distributor and the fuse box.=C2=A0 I'=
;ll look things over today to see what it's going to take.</div><div><b=
r></div><div>Hope to see you later this year :)</div><div><br></div><div>Br=
ad</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr=
">On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:33=E2=80=AFPM DAVID MASSEY <<a href=3D"mailto=
:dave1massey@cs.com">dave1massey@cs.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote=
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px so=
lid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<div> <font size=3D"3">I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if =
it uses the same regulator as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light=
connected the regulator will turn on and try to generate current even thou=
gh the alternator is not turning.=C2=A0 That four amps is the field current=
.=C2=A0 Applying power to the IGN light will cause current to flow into the=
regulator which turns everything on.=C2=A0 In normal operation, switching =
the key off will break this feed and the regulator will shut off.</font></d=
iv>
<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3">This works quite differently than the boot-strap oper=
ation with which we are more familiar and is typical of alternators of our =
vintage.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3">But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and =
this may not be the case. But that is where I would start.<br>
</font></div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"clear:both">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br>
</font></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black"><br>
</span></div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Brad Kahler <<a href=3D"mailto:bkahler1@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blan=
k">bkahler1@gmail.com</a>><br>
To: Triumphs <<a href=3D"mailto:Triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blan=
k">Triumphs@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm<br>
Subject: [TR] (no subject)<br>
<br>
<div id=3D"m_6358280264197886009yiv0856585115">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiri=
ng in my TR6.=C2=A0 Here's the configuration:
<div><br>
</div>
<div>1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire=C2=A0</div>
<div>2) New wiring harness from TRF</div>
<div>3) Positive=C2=A0cable connected to battery</div>
<div>4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a sma=
ll amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow b=
efore damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse b=
lows)</div>
<div>5) White wire at distributor disconnected</div>
<div>6) No dash instruments connected</div>
<div>7) Rear harness not installed yet</div>
<div>8) TBI power connector not connected</div>
<div>9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected=C2=A0</div>
<div>10) Alternator connected</div>
<div>11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.=C2=
=A0 When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current dr=
aw disappears.=C2=A0</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The wires area connected as follows.=C2=A0 The brown/yellow wire goes =
to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator=
called "switched live" from the battery.=C2=A0 Currently the sma=
ll brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.=C2=A0 If =
the "switched live' note means the brown wire is supposed to be co=
ld when the ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.=C2=A0=
=C2=A0</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition swit=
ch on position and only live when the ignition is on.=C2=A0 I don't hav=
e any way to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine run=
ning yet and won't for a few weeks.=C2=A0 I'd like to resolve this =
before I go much further with the wiring install.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Brad</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">triumphs@au=
tox.team.net</a> **<br>
<br>
//www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs"; target=3D"_blan=
k">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://www.t=
eam.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/dave1massey@cs.com" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/opti=
ons/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com</a><br>
</font></div>
</div>
</blockquote></div></div>
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