"Stinocher, Bryan D." wrote:
> Well, I tried out my new hub puller. I get that sucker really torqued on
> there tight, but no budging. I was afraid to try to REALLY tighten it w/o
> asking the list. Yes, I have loosened the nut on the hub. In fact, I have
> the nut upside down on the thread and flush with the top of the threads so
> that I don't booger them up.
>
> First off, the 5/8" threaded rod is about 18" long. Is this too long? It is
> on a capped wire wheel hub, so I have about 12-14 inches sticking up from
> the cap. Should I cut it down to about 9" or so, to change the flex point of
> the rod?
>
> Second, should I weld another nut at the end of the threaded rod that is
> pushing against the nut/threads, to make a bigger area of force?
>
> Third, just how hard should I torque down? Until I think that there is
> absolutely no way it should be on there this tightly, and then some more?
> This is my first experience of trying to pop rear hubs, so I'm being
> cautious (maybe overly so, but it is easier to wait and ask the Triumph Gods
> first, instead of ruining a rear hub and having to buy a new one!).
>
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
> Bryan Stinocher
> bdstinocher@sewsus.com
> 502-782-7397 xt.2284
> 68 TR 250 CD 5853 L
Bryan,
I have been working on removing the hubs from my spitfire. A few things that I
found are:
* The amount of torque required on the puller is tremendous. I had a 3/4" box
end wrench (spanner?) on the puller and tightened until I could not move it any
more. I then placed the boxed end of a 1 1/4" combination wrench on the open
end of the 3/4" wrench to get more leverage. 3/4 of a revolution later the hub
popped off with a bang. I figure that it took about 150 ft lb. of torque to pop
the hub.
* The end of the axle shaft was unblemished after removal. The end of the puller
was smooth and did not tear into the axle shaft nor did the axle shaft
"mushroom". I notice that the axle shaft has no threads directly to the end of
the shaft. I presume that this is to prevent the threads from getting damaged
during removal.
* I have seen guys remove TR6 hubs at the VTR convention last summer. They were
using a gigantic 24" crescent wrench and 24" pipe wrench along with a medium 6
lb sledge hammer to remove these hubs.
I think the length of the bolt you are using is too long. I think that a short
bolt will do just fine. After the system is snugged tight, It will only take 1
- 2 turns of the bolt to pop the hub.
Question: Did you build your puller with coarse or fine threaded bolt? The
reason I ask is that a fine thread bolt will give you more force on the axle for
a given amount of torque than a coarse thread (more mechanical advantage). Is
the bold hardened? Grade 8 or higher I think is required to prevent the bolt
from stripping.
Also, use a little bit of oil on the threads and on the interface between the
axle and puller bolt to make the puller a bit more efficient.
I pulled my hubs with a Craftsman 2 jaw gear puller. You can see what I did at
my website http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/7864/Lessons/Hubs.htm
Good Luck. Let us know how it went.
--
Patrick Barber, Allen Park, MI
70 Spitfire MkIII FDU89984L
74 Spitfire 1500 FM14774U (Organ donor)
Visit My Triumph Website at http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/pit/7864/Triumph/
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