Jim,
The following are my recommendations from personal experience, but keep in mind
that ride, comfort and handling are all extremely subjective:
> Well, all I really have left to do is the rear suspension. My 69 6 is a
> daily driver. I would like to confirm my prejudices and seek
> recommendations.
>
> 1) stock springs or something stiffer? As a daily driver I am not interested
> making the suspension any harder than it has to be. On the other hand I
> don't really like the rear end sag on acceleration.
> I'd go with the "uprated" or mild comp. springs available from TRF and others.
> 2) what kind of bushings for the trailing arm? rubber are probably softer
> and lead to a softer ride but wear out better and faster. Urethane (sp?)
> harder and longer lasting. One factor to consider is that I have be able to
> put them with my C Clamp and assorted sockets as a press.
> I highly recommend urethane bushings over the stock rubber. Great improvement
> in handling as well as longevity of the bushings. Definitely replace the shock
> links. Good prices are available from BPNW.
> 3) I've heard I can use about anything as fluid in the shocks. Thicker
> leads to stiff, thinner to less stiff. I am willing to give the old shocks
> a shot and replace them later if needed. Fluid recommendations? Gear Oil?
> 10W30?
> Unless your old shocks are leaking, I'd leave them alone except for cleaning
> the exterior and painting. I may be corrected by someone more knowledgeable,
> but I believe these shocks either work well, or not at all because a ruptured
> seal has allowed the fluid escape.
> I already have new u-joints on the rear shafts. Anything else I ought to do
> while I am there? I presume I should put in the rubber bump and rebound
> stops as well as any other rubber.
> Replace the stop and rebound rubbers and the rubber gaiters. Also lubricate
> the sliding shafts. I like to clean and repaint everything while I'm in there.
> The trailing arms look great painted with aluminum engine paint. This is also
> a good time to check the handbrake cables and connections. All the cars on
> which I've done a rebuild had rusty cables. They're inexpensive and fairly
> easy to replace.
> Is it really necessary to remove the rear shafts if don't really remove the
> trailing arm to replace the bushings, or is that folly and I should really
> take it out?
> I've read several posts where people have replaced trailing arm bushings
> without removing the trailing arms, but the only time and effort saved in my
> mind is in not having to bleed the brakes, which is not such a big deal, and
> most of our brake lines could benefit from a good bleed.
> Best of luck,
> Visited your web site. Your car looks great!
Jim Davis
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