Tony,
Get a small light and mirror and inspect that old tank. If it was dry
during storage, it may be in pretty good shape. If it looks ok, then do
a simple pressure test on it: plug up all the exits, fill it up with
water, then gradually add some air from a compressor. If nothing pops
under 10 or 15 lbs, then I would consider keeping it & using something
like Moss' cleaner/etcher/slusher. Even if there are leaks or thin
spots, it may be relatively easy to repair.
My '62 has the original in place. Now, it has been sitting for quite a
few years in storage and it still looks good (dry). I'll be doing the
test process etching/etc. above.
I plan to use the car in some vintage races eventually, will probably
temporarily swap out the stock tank for a fuel cell then.
Thanx for the info on the repro parts, I will be in the market for some
rocker panels soon.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif
'62 TR4 #CT17602
Tony Rhodes wrote:
> I am in the process of my restoration of my TR4A. I have the body
> off,
> and hence, the gas tank is out. What is the consensus about how to
> treat
> the gas tank? I can not see light through the metal, but I can't
> really
> tell
> the quality inside. I had no problems with garbage in the filter, but
> it
> has
> been sitting for an quite a few years awaiting the restoration.
>
> Should I just wash it out, and reinstall it, or should I use the MOSS
> tank
> cleaner/etcher/slushing compound? Or should I spring for a new
> "Marine Grade Aluminum" tank? Do the fuel lines need rerouting
> in real life? The MOSS catalog says that it MAY need rerouting. I
> would have thought that they know exactly which models
> would require rerouting.
>
> Suggestions are greatly appreciated.
>
> BTW, I have new TRF rear fenders and rear valence panel. I am
> not too happy with the fit nor the quality. The fit is WAY off. They
> are
> 1/4 inch too short, and they have a bow with the mid point bowing
> outward.
> If I were to try to bolt it flush it would kink in the middle. Plus
> the
> folded-over
> top edge is a round fold rather than a knife-edge crease. The
> original
> fits
> perfectly and has a nice edge. It is a shame to use $50 of a $350
> panel
> to repair the rust through, and still have to do a whole lot of metal
> work
> fitting
> the new sheet metal filler.
>
> The stamped areas in the rear valence where the bumper bracket
> passes through are in the wrong locations. They are 1/2 inch off
> compared
> to the original valence. Luckily they did not cut out the holes. I
> had to
> do a
> bunch of work removing the indentations of the stamping and creating
> the correct stampings. What a pain. Was there THAT much variation
> in the body during the TR4A run?
>
> -Tony
--
MZ
|