Charlie, I ran my TR-6 with a Brand new coil without a resistor and it went
out
on me. Maybe it was just coincidence. But I haven't had a problem since I went
back
to a coil with an external ballast resistor. BTW I am still running mechanical
points. I hope to switch to the petrelux [sp] soon.
Lucky for me I had the still had the original coil with resister in the
trunk.
:-) I was about half way between home in San Antonio and Baton Rouge LA at two
o'clock in the morning.
Charlie B. wrote:
> Ray,
> >
> > Some cars (probably yours) are designed for continuous 12V operation.
> > I assume the language cited by someone else ("be sure the ballast resistor
>is
> > installed, etc.") was not in your instructions. I know that
> > language was puzzling to me for a while, and was a factor in the
> > problems I described.
>
> Neither of my cars was designed to run at 12v. They've both been
> modified to run at battery voltage.
> >
> > Mine worked fine for a while. Actually, I now recall I had two
> > failures; both just before 6 months service. (After 6 months, you
> > send it back to Crane, before that you go thru the vendor, so I
> > remember this point). I think, but am not sure, that it felt
> > pretty hot when operated at 12V continuously. I remember my coil was
> > hot to the touch (since it was a 6V coil seeing 12V continuously),
> > maybe that is what I remember was heating up, rather than the Crane unit.
>
> Yes a 6v. coil will definately run hot at 12v. Acutually, a 12v. coil
> will run warm at 12v.
>
> > Obviously it will operate at 12V for a short time, as it is designed to see
> > 12 V during cranking.
> >
> > Probably you are right and the design voltage is dependent on which
> > vehicle it goes in (ie., designed for whatever voltage is supposed
> > to be at the coil). What cars do you have them in? Are you sure
> > that your coil supply is correct (original)? That was my problem;
> > some earlier owner had rewired to have continuous 12V at coil, and
> > I didn't catch it. The ballast resistor was still in place, but
> > the lead to the coil came off the wrong end!. The supply lead
> > may come out of a loom, but unless you confirm with a meter (or from
> > proper wiring diagram) that it is 12V (switch in run position) I would
> > remain suspicious. Easy to check...
>
> Again, I purpose built both systems to run at 12v. Both systems are on
> Spitfires. The autocrosser doesn't even have a ballast resistor wrapped
> in the harness. The driver's resistor wire has been "capped" at both
> ends and bypassed.
>
> > I expect that if your vehicle is designed to have 12V at coil with
> > switch in run position, then you are ok. If not, and you do have
> > 12V at the coil continuously, then you are in the same position I
> > found myself, except you haven't had a failure (250 miles from home) yet.
>
> My autocrosser has been on many a club related road trip, driven to many
> an autocross, and run, plus it went to the Camp Hill Regional in PA (200
> miles R/T) and run there.
>
> > If you find the car is supposed to have 6 V at the coil, but doesn't,
> > it is probably pretty easy to fix.
> > Since I'm running a 12v. coil on both cars, I definately DON'T want to
> go back to a 6v. coil.
>
> Like I said, both my cars are wired for 12v., checked and verified, the
> XR700s are humming along nicely,
>
> I'm happy with the way things are.
> Charlie B.
--
Roger Helman 71 TR6 CC67866L
Digimation Inc. http://deepthought.digimation.com/rogerh/
New Orleans La.
www.digimation.com
Voice. 504.468.7898
Fax. 504.468.5494
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