Ray,
>
> Some cars (probably yours) are designed for continuous 12V operation.
> I assume the language cited by someone else ("be sure the ballast resistor is
> installed, etc.") was not in your instructions. I know that
> language was puzzling to me for a while, and was a factor in the
> problems I described.
Neither of my cars was designed to run at 12v. They've both been
modified to run at battery voltage.
>
> Mine worked fine for a while. Actually, I now recall I had two
> failures; both just before 6 months service. (After 6 months, you
> send it back to Crane, before that you go thru the vendor, so I
> remember this point). I think, but am not sure, that it felt
> pretty hot when operated at 12V continuously. I remember my coil was
> hot to the touch (since it was a 6V coil seeing 12V continuously),
> maybe that is what I remember was heating up, rather than the Crane unit.
Yes a 6v. coil will definately run hot at 12v. Acutually, a 12v. coil
will run warm at 12v.
> Obviously it will operate at 12V for a short time, as it is designed to see
> 12 V during cranking.
>
> Probably you are right and the design voltage is dependent on which
> vehicle it goes in (ie., designed for whatever voltage is supposed
> to be at the coil). What cars do you have them in? Are you sure
> that your coil supply is correct (original)? That was my problem;
> some earlier owner had rewired to have continuous 12V at coil, and
> I didn't catch it. The ballast resistor was still in place, but
> the lead to the coil came off the wrong end!. The supply lead
> may come out of a loom, but unless you confirm with a meter (or from
> proper wiring diagram) that it is 12V (switch in run position) I would
> remain suspicious. Easy to check...
Again, I purpose built both systems to run at 12v. Both systems are on
Spitfires. The autocrosser doesn't even have a ballast resistor wrapped
in the harness. The driver's resistor wire has been "capped" at both
ends and bypassed.
> I expect that if your vehicle is designed to have 12V at coil with
> switch in run position, then you are ok. If not, and you do have
> 12V at the coil continuously, then you are in the same position I
> found myself, except you haven't had a failure (250 miles from home) yet.
My autocrosser has been on many a club related road trip, driven to many
an autocross, and run, plus it went to the Camp Hill Regional in PA (200
miles R/T) and run there.
> If you find the car is supposed to have 6 V at the coil, but doesn't,
> it is probably pretty easy to fix.
> Since I'm running a 12v. coil on both cars, I definately DON'T want to
go back to a 6v. coil.
Like I said, both my cars are wired for 12v., checked and verified, the
XR700s are humming along nicely,
I'm happy with the way things are.
Charlie B.
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