Ronald Olds wrote:
>
> Scott,
>
> I replaced my entire interior including the carpeting last year and will
> give you my recommendations.
>
> I did not use the original style padding, instead I used that foil backed
> heat reflective padding. I bought mine from JC Whitney. Much cheaper than
> anyone else. This stuff does a great job for heat and noise. I did not
> glue this down except in certain areas. I did glue down on the side wall
> in front of the doors, the rear deck and especially directly behind the
> seats on the vertical section and the area that goes around the front of
> the transmission tunnel on the fire wall. All other areas will be held by
> the carpeting. Cut 1 1/2" holes to go around the snaps, the holes need to
> be this large to allow the carpet snaps to stay in place. I tried many ways
> to cut this padding but found the best was to use tin snips. Use 3M spray
> upholstery adhesive, it works great.
>
> Good luck and if you have any more questions I'll be glad to help.
>
> Ron Olds
> 72 TR6
> 60 TR3A
> 50 TD
>
> Ron:
Thanks for the advice. Definitely the process I plan on taking
with my carpet installation. My only area of uncertainty has
to do with the carpet snaps. It was suggested that I check
my old and new (not yet installed) floor pans for the correct
locations of the male end snaps (was refered to as "screws" ??).
Neither of the pans have any snaps. I therefore assume that I
will need to drill 1/8" holes in the floor pans and rivet the
snaps. Am I correct, did you need to do this when you replaced
your carpet? Could you recommend the locations of the snaps
to be put in the floor pans.
Also, in the areas where you glued the carpet as mentioned, did
you first glue the padding to the metal and then glue the
carpet to the padding? Also, did you glue the carpet and padding
on the entire length of the transmission/dirve shaft tunnel?
Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6
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