I too have made my own panels, however mine are secured slightly differently
than the originals - actually I like the finish a little better.
As Paul indicated there are three clearance holes around the door pull that if
not there create a bump in the panel. However, my panels only have the top
clearance hole, the other two are smaller and I use a polished steel screw and
finishing washer through the vinyl, through the wood and through the metal
plate to hold the panels on. The other securing point is the actual door latch
plate. Overall this holds the panels in place nicely without having to have
copied the original panels as acuratly for the original clips.
Also of note, to get the slightly plush feel behind the vinyl, I went to Home
Depot and bought a role of the plastic underlay for laminent hardwood
flooring... it's about an 1/8th of an inch thick and gives the door a more
original feel than had I simply glued vinyl to the wood, and it was easier to
work with than real foam.
Granted I might do this sometime again as I was simply experimenting the first
time and happend to be happier with the finish than I originally expected.
Good luck...
c.
-----Original Message-----
From: ptegler@cablespeed.com [mailto:ptegler@cablespeed.com]
There are a few small holes that clear the screw heads that hold the
door pull on the metal. Is this the 'bump' you're referring to?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Henry Stike" <stiker2126@yahoo.com>
> Trying to make new door panels for the 79 spit and
> discovering there is a buldge that prevents cutting
> out for door pull exactly. If cut out small hole, then
> panel will have a gap at the top?? I guess the other
> option is to cut out bigger hole for door pull and
> leave enough vinyl to glue to metal of door. Has
> anyone else done this...I see Tegler has done his GT6,
> but it doesnt look like it has the buldge out like a
> spit 1500.
|