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Re: [Shop-talk] Epoxy recommendations?

To: jamesf@groupwbench.org
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Epoxy recommendations?
From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 19:43:28 GMT
Agree, drilling the shaft is easier said than done, but how about cutting a
thin keyway with a cutoff wheel on a dremel?  Just something to take the shear
force.  Maybe that would spread it out enough so it wouldn't destroy the
plastic.  could probably cut a corresponding slot in the plastic with a
hacksaw blade.  Then epoxy.

-- Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
On Jan 25, 2009, at 11:12 AM, Randall wrote:

> Jim,
>
> I'm not familiar with "A + B".  I use "JB Weld" (the slow curing
> variety),
> which seems to outperform everything else I've tried.  And IMO it
> would
> probably not hold in your application unless you can find something
> stronger
> to form the splines (like perhaps steel wire) and use the epoxy just
> to hold
> it together.  Epoxy makes a strong bond between parts that fit
> snugly, but
> has little strength of it's own.


Thanks for all the responses. I definietly can't pin it unless I take
it to a jeweler, and even then all the torque on 2% of the plastic
would certainly crack the plastic.

www.thistothat.com is very cool! They also recommended JB Weld.

A+B is a putty, equal parts of each. Hand-moldable. Probably just a
hardening plastic for making surface area.

The splines aren't very defined. There are about 6 depressions on the
motor shaft, eyeball says about 0.2mm deep and the same wide, and soft-
shouldered. Not enough to hold a set screw, or steel wire, or anything
but a liquid that becomes a solid. The parts fit snugly enough that I
can't make the two slip with my hands. But running the DW with water
in it, it slips, and if I then apply pressure to the impeller, it
slips more. So I think I will try JB Weld. If it doesn't work I can
buy a machinist friend $150 of Scotch and he'll make one that'll
outlast me :-)

jim
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