Good morning Conrad,
I don't know where you live, but I am going to assume that where ever it
is, you have a significant wind consideration for engineering analysis
purposes, and maybe some snow load. And again I assume that the portal
frame was professionally designed. Any movement in the frame would be
negligible, less than 1/8". However, slotting the plate will do no harm.
We generally attach the C channel wrap with drive rivets. Predrill the
plate with a half dozen or so holes, set in place over the block, drilll
the holes into the block, install rivets. These are lead or heavy steel,
1/4" diameter, with what looks like a finishing nail embedded in the
center. Put the rivet in, whack once with a hammer to sink the pin, it
spreads the back of the rivet, and you're done. Since the channel is
wrapping the block and sitting on the ground, it really cannot move
anyway. And you have now created a column because the wall within has
rebar solidly embedded and epoxied into the floor.
GPD4
On Sat, 19 Oct 2002 16:24:19 +0100 "Conrad" <conrad@conrad.uk.net>
writes:
> George, thanks again.
>
> Ok, so I now got myself a load of 1/2" rebar, epory (rawl-r-kem)
> and
> 1/4" plate. Plan is as per your instructions to run tabs up the
> frame
> with holes for the rebar, and bond 10 or so lengths of rebar into
> the
> floor. Also rebar up the end of the wall next to the door.
>
> > necessary. In engineering theory, this wall be support a
> > 5400lb load generated by an 80mph wind with no reinforcing,
> > so anything additional that you do is just insurance.
>
> Just to make sure I'm reading you right, the thing that would
> trouble me
> is the weight of the door trying to pull the wall over when its open
> (ie
> at 90 degrees to the wall). You saying I should not worry about
> that?
> The proposed door design is about 7'x10', 50mm x 3mm angle frame
> with 2
> 50mm x 3mm flat diagonal braces, and 3/4" ply or similar sheets,
> possibly with a thin steel or ally facing. Will be pretty heavy,
> although I couldn't begin to guess the weight. The ground outside
> is
> just mud, so I cant use a jockey wheel type thing to support the
> outer
> edge of the door, so the wall must hold it.
>
> > As an additional thought, we will generally wrap the block
> > wall with a piece of 16ga "C" break metal 4" x width of block
> > +1/8" x 4". Protects the end of the wall and gives you a lot
> > more flexibility to attach your hinge points to the wall.
>
> I was thinking about that. How would you say I should fix that to
> the
> end of the wall? Rawl bolt it on after the wall is built, or should
> I do
> the same tabs and rebar thing that I am doing against the portal?
>
> One thing is slightly troubling me, its my understanding that the
> portal
> frame design is supposed to be a bit flexible, such that weight on
> the
> roof causes the walls to expand outward slightly. If I tie the
> walls
> solidly into the frame wont something have to give. I'm thinking
> about
> the gantry going up there etc? Perhaps I should use oversize holes
> in
> the tabs so there can be some movement before pulling on the rebar?
> Or
> have I got that wrong?
>
> > Ask anything else you need.
>
> I hope you mean that :-).
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Conrad
>
> Ps, is this still on topic in here?
>
>
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