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Re: [oletrucks] Still having TF power brake problems - any

To: <the_hams@hotmail.com>, <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Still having TF power brake problems - any
From: "glperry" <glperry@fwi.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 11:19:32 -0500 (Central Daylight Time)
=0D
Don't most dual systems need the porportioning (sp) valves as part of
system? It's the one right by the MC and has wire for light if something
goes bad.=0D
 I would have thought if putting on new brake parts, you would have gone =
new
all around, 'specially with power on them. Did you replace the front hose=
s?
I have done newer trucks and found the hose was bad and thought was calip=
er
sticking. It pulled when braking. Seems the lining comes loose in hoses a=
nd
acts like a valve. Allows fluid one way, flaps shut w/out pressure and wo=
n't
let the fluid back off and keeps brake on some and early engagement when
using brakes. =0D
=0D
G. L. Grumpy's=0D
Old Iron Ranch=0D
Big Chevy AD trucks and COE's =0D
MM Tractors=0D
glperry@fwi.com=0D
Huntington, IN 46750=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: Carl & Becky Ham=0D
Date: Monday, September 16, 2002 09:29:44 PM=0D
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net=0D
Subject: [oletrucks] Still having TF power brake problems - any further
advice?=0D
=0D
I wrote approx. 2 weeks ago asking for advice with my brake problems sinc=
e =0D
converting to power brakes. Here's an update of what I've done but I'm =0D
still not satisfied and need some help.=0D
=0D
BACKGROUND:=0D
'56 Chevy 1/2 ton stepside with stock suspension and brakes. Purchased a =
=0D
power brake conversion consisting of a vacuum booster, master cylinder an=
d =0D
mounting bracket (under floor). Specified 4 wheel drum/drum brake system =
=0D
when I ordered the conversion. Had a local garage install the system over=
 =0D
the winter months. They had to make some new lines for the front brakes =0D
because they had so much trouble bleeding them with the new system. Also =
=0D
purchased speed bleeders for all four wheel cylinders. Got truck back in =
=0D
the spring, but didn't drive much as I was rewiring, installing power =0D
steering and tilt steering column, new automatic transmission, lowered fr=
ont
=0D
end by removing two leafs from front springs and smoothed the dash.=0D
=0D
Finally got everything together and started seriously driving about 4-5 =0D
weeks ago. Immediately noticed the truck pulling to the right during hard=
 =0D
braking. Rear brake on driver's side smelled hot and eventually burnt the=
 =0D
new paint off the drum after approx. 300 miles. Removed both rear brake =0D
drums and driver's side linings/shoes were 50% of the other side (both we=
re =0D
new last year). Thought driver's side rear may have been adjusted too =0D
close, so readjusted both rear brakes and repainted driver's side drum. =0D
After a test drive the same problem on the driver's side (drum hot to the=
 =0D
touch) compared to other wheels both front and rear. Suspected driver's =0D
side rear wheel cyliner bad, removed (it WAS full of rust, one piston =0D
stuck). Tip-off was jacking the rear end up, wheels turned fine until I =0D
started the truck and applied brakes, driver's side would not move after =
=0D
brakes engaged.=0D
=0D
Replaced wheel cylinder (local AutoZone had one in stock for $10.85), reb=
led
=0D
brakes and readjusted all four wheels per specifications (adjust in until=
 =0D
drag, then back off 7 notches). Another test drive, SAME results. Took =0D
truck back to local shop that did the conversion and complained, they =0D
checked it over AND found when they installed the power conversion they h=
ad =0D
to move one of the parking brake cable pulleys back about 2-3 inches on t=
he =0D
frame. Somehow this resulted in the parking brake on the driver's side re=
ar =0D
keeping the brake shoes engaged with the drum (when the brakes were appli=
ed,
=0D
but would later loosen up). Loosened the rear parking brake cables and =0D
driver's side drum doesn't get hot anymore. WHEW!!=0D
=0D
Test drove truck and it STILL pulls to the right during hard braking. =0D
Almost feels like the rear brakes are trying to move the truck to the rig=
ht.
=0D
Do I need a proportioning valve to keep the rear brakes from engaging too=
 =0D
early? I'm about ready to chuck it all and put in an IFS and Ford 9 inch =
=0D
rear end with disk brakes all around. Am I overlooking something? Any =0D
advice appreciated, sorry for the lengthy story but thought if I put the =
=0D
details in it would save a bunch of questions later.=0D
=0D
Carl Ham=0D
'56 Chevy TF Stepside=0D
Pontiac, IL=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
_________________________________________________________________=0D
Join the world=12s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. =0D
http://www.hotmail.com=0D
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959=0D
=0D
=2E

[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/gif]
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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