I've used fiberglass on a couple of floors before and its not a bad fix.
Certainly easier that cutting out the original and welding in and sealing
new ones. I only used it if the rust wasn't too bad and the floor was still
structurally sound. I assume it will last a long time if applied
properly...shouldn't have to worry about future rust if you treat it
beforehand. My .02.
Mike KOken
Colo. Springs CO
Almost record heat today.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hall, Phillip" <Phillip.B.Hall@MSFC.NASA.GOV>
To: "Roadsters (E-mail)" <Datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2001 2:19 PM
Subject: Floor pan repair
> Hey guys -
>
> Tired of looking at lubricant wear data and checked the list and found
very
> little action, so I will ask an opinion.
>
> Talked to a body guy today on repairing the floors in the custom. They
are
> almost complete with a few small holes, but rusty and weak. What he
> suggested.
>
> Using my angle grinder with a wire brush, take off any loose rust.
>
> Use rust converter (not POR because fiberglass will not stick to it) and
> treat the rust.
>
> Spot weld in any repair panels. First grinding down to clean metal in
> welded areas. I will put reinforcements under the seat rails.
>
> Seal the seams with sealer - 3M.
>
> Lay one to two layers of fiberglass mat (mat conforms better then cloth)
to
> straighten the floors and cover any small holes.
>
> Turn the body over, take the undercoating off then treat with POR15.
>
> So, does that sound reasonable??
>
> Phil
> SEROC!!
>
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