Don,
A couple of comments on your predicament - having done this myself in
the past, removing the front sway bar is likely going to cause even more
understeer - the front tires will suffer even more positive camber - and
therefore induce more understeer - with the bar removed.
Try your experiment, but I feel that this is going in the wrong
direction....a bigger bar in the front, to prevent excessive positive
camber while turning, setting static camber to at least 0 degrees,
perhaps even somewhat negative to begin with, then moderately stiffen up
your rear end, with some combination of stiffer shocks (in compression,
not rebound), stiffer springs, and/or a rear sway bar - the goal is to
increase rear weight transfer, to encourage some 'turn induced'
oversteer (as opposed to power induced)....one way to get around cones
in a hurry - be careful, though - with too much weight transfer in the
rear, the car can be dangerous to drive at higher speeds.
You mention that you have soft shocks in the back in an attempt to
prevent too much bounce....do you mean power-on wheel hop? If this is
what is happening, a traction bar, as standard on 2000s is a must, to
reduce spring 'wind-up', and subsequent hop of the axle. The Watts
linkage will reduce the tendency for the axle to shift sideways in a
turn, but won't help with power induced problems in a straight line.
Stiffer shocks (in compression) in the back are one way to improve
weight transfer while transitioning into a turn, and therefore help
increase your oversteer/reduce your understeer.
Pete Long
'68 (Solex 2L) KA24DE
"Miller, Don" wrote:
>
> Traction is handled by a welded rear end. I have the battery center mounted
> in the trunk. 205/50-15 tires, Kumho V700 VictorRacer. I have a watts
> linkage in the making for more rear end traction but need to loosen up the
> front some. I also run soft shocks on the back to try and keep from getting
> too much bounce. I put the welded rear in because it was much cheaper (my
> friend had it on the shelf from his 1200, same 3.90 ratio) and I just had to
> change the gear set. Limited slips are very spendy. Maybe if I win the
> Lottery!
>
> Don M.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Mike Poorboy [mailto:bitterrootprop@nidlink.com]
> > Sent: Monday, August 23, 1999 12:26 PM
> > To: Miller, Don; datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: REmoving Front sway bar
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Miller, Don" wrote:
> >
> > > Whhat's the easiest way to remove the front sway bar?
> > Remove the middle two
> > > mounts and then the ends? Do you need to jack up the car to
> > release tension?
> > > Looking for safe and quick. I want to be able to try with
> > and without the
> > > bar at an event this weekend. Trying to help with the car
> > pushing. Thanks!
> > >
> > > Don Miller
> > > 68 1600 (finally have all the power to the ground, now just
> > need to turn!)
> > > Meridian, ID
> >
> > Don,
> > How did you handle the traction problem?
> >
> > I guess turning is important if your autocrossing!!
> >
> > Mike
> > Hayden Lake, Idaho
> >
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