Just a follow up to Irv's suggestion, if rotating the axle still doesn't
allow the spring to be removed then the next step is to loosen the
half-shaft. This will allow the axle to drop even further.
I had this problem on my TR6 which was caused by older replacement
springs which were taller than normal. Loosening or removing the four
bolts from the half shaft worked like a charm and it's not too difficult
either.
R. Ashford Little II
www.geocities.com/ralittle2
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Irv Korey
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 10:55 AM
To: JRURHH@aol.com; 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
At 10:35 AM 10/16/02 -0400, JRURHH@aol.com wrote:
>Well it's time for the help of the list again. Since it rained last
>weekend I decided to get jump on the winter project and change out the
>rear springs and shocks. I read on the list a few weeks ago how easy it
>was to remove the rear spring, it seemed like a piece of cake so I gave
a
>try. Needless to say now I'm stuck.
>
>I put the rear of the car on jack stands, put a jack under the trailing
>arm, undid the connection to the shock, let the jack down. I expected
it
>to come down far enough to get the spring out but it doens't come down
>enough to get the tension off the spring. Do I have to take the bolt
off
>of the trailing arm to get the spring out?
No. Rotate the axle until it comes down just a little bit more. There is
a
spot where once found, the axle comes down a little bit more before it
hits
the frame. That little bit more is enough to remove the spring without
undoing anything else. This tip has worked on at least 3 TR6's that I
have
been involved with, including mine.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
63 TR4 VSCDA Group 2 #58
Highland Park, IL
|