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Re: "Magic Clutch" Kit by TRF

To: Lizirbydavis@cs.com
Subject: Re: "Magic Clutch" Kit by TRF
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 11:13:47 -0400 (EDT)
On Tue, 1 Oct 2002 Lizirbydavis@cs.com wrote:

> Hi List,

Howdy.

> 1.Does anyone have any experience with the "Magic Clutch" offered by TRF?   
> How does it compare to Borg and Beck etc...  It seems pricey by comparison, 
> but I'm ready to do about anything to maximize this replacement opportunity.  

No direct experience. I "kit bashed" a magic clutch once it worked fine.
Visit the buckeye triumphs web site for a writeup of TR6 clutch issues
(and other stuff - it's a fine site).

> 2.  How about experiences with headers?  I see TRF has a 2 piece system for 
> $480.00.  This is twice what everybody else is selling for.  I realize theirs 
> may offer some engineering advantages that I don't recognize.  Anyone want to 
> wax lyrical on the pluses/minuses of a header system?  Installation, 
> longevity, performance improvments?

I do have experience with headers!

Rule 1 - you get what you pay for. The TRF expensive header is a quality
unit and IMHO worth the money if your intent is to get max power from your
engine system.

The primary advantage to the expensive header is that the primary tubes
are 1.5" OD - this is more than 1/4" larger than the other "quality"
headers out there. The large tubes theoretically increase power. 

The flange appears to be laser cut, the one example I have basically
bolted up with no fettling. The cheap headers need lots of messaging with
various grinding tools. The flange is also about the same thickness as the
intake manifold, so you get nice even sealing with the stock TR6 manifold
clamp thingies.

About the only "minus" with the set that I have is that a couple of the
tubes (the #1 and #2 (I think, it might have been #3) are bent (out of
necessity) in such a way as thay will foul on the stock studs. This is a
real minor issue - the fix is to replace the studs with cap screws - I use
3/8-20 allen heads for the job. The cap screws give the car a "high tech"
look. Well, as high tech as a TR6 can be, I suppose.

:-)

The principle advantage of the expensive system is that the primary tube
lengths are pretty close to ideal and they then add secondary tubes which
was about the right length - so in theory you should get more power from
this setup than you would get with the Monza header.

To do the job right, you should fit the header and modify as needed
(things like air-fuel mixture bungs and exhaust gas temp sensor holes)
need to be done. Then send the thing off for an inside/outside ceramic
coating such as "Jet Hot". The coating will make the header work better
and last longer.

When you're done, you've probably dished out $550 (hint - order the header
during the Winter Parts sale!) and you get a quality setup with almost no
compromises. I highly endorse this header.

> 3.  What is Shipwrights disease, and what are the symptoms?

Shipright disease (aka shipfitters syndrome) is when you start off doing a
simple tune-up and the next thing you know you're up to your ears in spare
parts (just in case) and you wind up doing a 10 year duration frame off
restoration.

When you spend all your time re-reading the TR6 factory parts manual and
you know (off the top of your head) that the factory part number for a TR6
gudgeon pin is 149215 - you've got it bad.

I've "got it bad", I have 5 spare cylinder heads (and two complete "core
engines") - JUST IN CASE.

:-)

> embarking on the journey
> Joe Davis
> Drakes Branch Va.

We're here for you, Joe.

rml
Boston, MA-ish
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