Hi all,
To add a little twist to this discussion, as some of you may know, I performed
some research on this subject several years ago when I had similar problems.
There are a lot of opinions on this and there always will be, but if it
interests you, you can read up on what I found to be a very good, simple
solution to this nagging thrustwasher problem by going to:
http://members.aol.com/Trmgafun/tr6.html
One problem with the OEM style thrustwasher (TW) is that it is a steel washer
with a fairly thin alloy face (plating) on the one surface that comes in
contact with the spinning crankshaft surface. This may have been the
standard way back when, but now there are much better choices. Once the alloy
surface wears through to the steel, you're going to find that it will wear very
rapidly, and that is when you will damage the crankshaft surface and much more
if let go too long. Just like a lot of things on your car, the (rear) TW
should be replaced at regular intervals. It comes without warning, so you need
to keep a close eye on your crankshaft end float. If the crankshaft surface is
in perfect order (as with a new engine), your TW will
most likely last a fairly long time, but if there are any irregularities
whatsoever due to normal wear, it will most likely shorten the life, in some
cases more than others. The plating is not very thick, and once any part of
that surface wears through, it will go fast! The hammering (from clutch pedal
activity) of the crankshaft against the TW certainly isn't a good thing, but
that, along with the incredible forces the
little TW is subjected to, it's amazing it lasts as long as it does.
We all know how much leg force it takes to press the clutch pedal to the floor.
But when we realize that hydraulics and leverage is playing a major part of
that applied force, we can much better understand how much force is actually
being applied to the relatively small surface of the TW.
That is why I feel that the solid alloy TW that was developed (not an exotic
metal) is benneficial. It is a solid bronze alloy (copper, lead, tin, zinc).
If and when the washer does wear to that unfortunate number, you won't have to
deal with the much less desirable steel surface of the OEM style washer coming
in contact the the spinning crankshaft which causes major problems. As with any
TW it will need to be replaced once the end float becomes excessive, but at
least until it is replaced, major damage won't occur
because the alloy is a very desirable surface for these conditions, and it is
solid.....not plated over steel. Unfortunately, this is one item that owners,
especially inexperienced, or owners who purchase a car that has an
unknown past, tend to neglect until havock occurs.
As with my TR6's less than perfect irregular crankshaft surface, the solid
alloy TW wore slightly to conform to that surface and that car is doing fine to
this day.
Just my $.02 on a very debatable subject.....
Scott Helms
http://members.aol.com/Trmgafun/britishcarweek.html
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