I have started to rebuild a spare TR4 transmission. I have removed the nut on the output shaft and removed the flange. The manaul says that there is supposed to be a circlip somewhere in there, but I
Message text written by Cliff Hansen The Haynes manual shows a circlip (Fig 6.3, pg 128, item#35) that the text says to remove after removing the flange, but the diagram makes it look like it is on t
That circlip is on the inside, it butts up against the inner race of the middle bearing on the mainshaft, fitting into a groove in the mainshaft just forward of the spiral gear that drives the speed
Lacking a puller, I've always lifted the gearbox by the rear extension at the rear mount point and driven the gearbox downward by striking the rear of the mainshaft with a soft, but heavy, hammer. Ne
You will need a brass head hammer, brass drift set and a good sized rubber mallet to work on the transmission. You will damage the shaft or casings using a steel hammer. Follow the Haynes step-by-st
Message text written by "Brian Sanborn" very close attention to the Haynes instructions< Thanks. I will get a brass head hammer (have to figure out where!) Could not find a puller with more than 8" d
Message text written by "Brian Sanborn" < Still no luck on getting it off. I have a BFRH (R for Rubber), but it did not budge. The tail housing moved about 3/8" rearward and stopped there. The strang
I've puzzled over this. Since the mainshaft is moving back with the tail housing, it seems that the rear bearing may be seized to the shaft. Does this bearing move back with the tail housing? The sh
Message text written by INTERNET:spitlist@gte.net Is the bearing supposed to come out with the output shaft? I thought it was supposed to stay in the housing until removed individually. I thought the
Message text written by Cliff Hansen It seems to be seized enough for me! I hope find a puller with enough strength for the job, plus a length of 12" or so. Maybe one of the tool rental companies....
rental How hard rubber hammer, and 1/8" of tail housing Sadly, I have experienced this as well. In my case, the rear bearing required the use of an "adjustable flame wrench" to remove. This also nec
Message text written by INTERNET:emanteno@ibm.net Hmmm. that is not good. I guess you tried a BFP (puller, that is) before hitting it with the flame? WHat happened to the output shaft due to the heat
<< Is the bearing supposed to come out with the output shaft? I thought it was supposed to stay in the housing until removed individually. I thought the puller device was a "nice" enhancement, and it
I got the brass hammer from AutoZone and the brass drifts from Harbor Freight. Brian Sanborn 62 TR4 CT16260L - Groton, MA My TR4 Restoration Web Site http://www.net1plus.com/users/sanborn/Home.html