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References: [ +from:james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk: 180 ]

Total 180 documents matching your query.

101. Re: Fuel injection (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 01:37:53 +0100; I have been looking at this, and they Hayns Spitfire Herold Vitt and GT6 restoration book shows a Spitfire with Lucas mechanical fule injection. I have looked at developing my own sustem, the only ma; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00030.html (7,043 bytes)
102. Re: Replacing Electric Fuel Pump on '77 1500 (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 13:15:34 +0100; Mabe you need some type of kettle descailer to be put in the block only. Try running at the maximum pressure you can, that way you can move up the boiling point of the water to 120 degrees C.; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00096.html (6,903 bytes)
103. Re: Tub removal (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 13:32:17 +0100; The Haynes Herold Vittess Spitfire and GT6 manual has pictures of the whole process. Even showing two people removeing the tub on one of them. You will need to make shure that the body is structuraly; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00097.html (7,505 bytes)
104. Re: Dash Pot Oil (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 14:15:17 +0100; I use engin oil, and a light weight 3in one oil. I then fill both with engin oil, then fine tune it with 3in one. Putting the 3 in on in the dashpot which takes the longet to fall. That way both carb; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00296.html (8,128 bytes)
105. Re: Temp Gauge Reading High (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 14:21:41 +0100; If it were the voltage stabliser the fule gage would give the same results. Check you havent tightened down the rocker cover onto the sensor wire, shorting it out. I recon its the sender that needs r; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00297.html (7,525 bytes)
106. Gearbox Single Rail Jtype Overhaull (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 22:08:23 +0100; Hi there, after gettting strcuk down with the flu I stripped down my spare 'J' type overdrive box. Basicly I need new syncro rings box bearings etc. OD output bearings are fine, dont want to desturb; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00303.html (7,206 bytes)
107. Re: Dash Pot Oil (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 13:35:46 +0100; You have a 'O' ring? Ahhh Pass the SU does not have that particular foible.; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00340.html (7,078 bytes)
108. Re: Fan/Stereo Wiring Conflict (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 13:31:49 +0100; Have had almost the same setup in my car. Run the fan driect from the battery, put in a fuse and a relay, the coil of which should be wired in serise with earth, switch, relay and ignition wire. Swit; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00341.html (7,389 bytes)
109. Re: Clutch and Tranny Question -> Midget 1500 (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 13:05:56 +0100; Cruching? Sounds like warn syncro baulk rings to me. If its clutch you should find it almost imposible to get into R at any time. Syncro probs will leed to crunching when you try to get into gear. D; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00342.html (9,149 bytes)
110. Re: Thrust washers (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 13:20:05 +0100; Crank regrind. Bottom end engin rebuild. 2 weaks work! Mostly wating for parts and machineing. Get the crank reground, the thrust washer faces touched. Ask them tell you what oversize thrust washers; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00343.html (8,341 bytes)
111. Re: thrustwashers (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 18:35:03 +0100; Where are you in the world. I have a 13/60 block & crank in need of a bit of TLC in the UK, Oxford. James; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00395.html (6,487 bytes)
112. Re: Spitfire won't start (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 23:30:16 +0100; If you can find the adaptor plate from doly 1500 you could replace the standard starter with a pre-engadged type. It meens loosing the solinoid, but you never have any problems with sticking whatever; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00524.html (7,168 bytes)
113. Altinator Conversion (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 00:07:21 +0100; Triumph World did a Technical Artical on everything you need to repair and survice a Triumph Altinator. They also had in the last secion replacement sugestions. They showed a Lucas A127 conversion, t; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00525.html (7,580 bytes)
114. Re: break in oil (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 22:07:20 +0100; I used a standard Unipart 20w50 oil for running in, then chainged to a 15W50 after the first 500 miles, chainging the oil filter. The main thing to chainge the oil AND filter at 500 miles. I also kno; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00526.html (8,023 bytes)
115. Re: Altinator Conversion (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 00:24:13 +0100; Just to say, I hunted arround a scapyard a couple of days ago, and got me an A127 45 altinator. 45 Amp, made in about 1987 straight swap, all the fittings are the same size, only thing is the adjustm; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00689.html (7,749 bytes)
116. Re: Rear spring sag?????? (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 00:36:34 +0100; Don't forget problem up front. I've noticed it on my car, the anti role bar bends! Lower on the drivers side, (RHD in my case) remove it and my car sits level (even when I have my warn old spring)! P; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00690.html (8,278 bytes)
117. Re: Power Brakes (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 23:58:44 +0100; GT6 servo was used to boost the front brakes only, if this fails you lock your back wheels, and you can imagin what would happen. If you upgrade to a more powerfull servo, you have too much force up; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00691.html (9,104 bytes)
118. Gearbox Probs from A Month ago (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 09:52:43 +0100; Hi Just to folow up the problems I had a month or so ago, I have got the box out the car, and am building up the overdrive box using the best of the parts from the two. Symptoms were 1st 2nd and 3rd; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00694.html (7,552 bytes)
119. Re: Where did it go? (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 10:04:53 +0100; You did it up to 150ft/lb torque and it still came loose! Mine stayed there even at 120!; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00777.html (6,649 bytes)
120. Re: O/D use (score: 1): Author: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 10:13:24 +0100; The reson that the overdrive is not used in 1st and 2nd is a question of propshaft speed, not torque. If you have ever seen the inside of a J type you know how strong these things are. They are used; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00778.html (7,873 bytes)

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