- 121. Re:Tightening ball-joint nut (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 09:29:06 -0600
- I think all I did was press or lightly tap the arm into the ball joint taper. As turning the nut starts to get tight, friction between the tapered shaft and the tapered hole should keep it from turn
- /html/6pack/2002-04/msg00457.html (7,175 bytes)
- 122. RE: 6 Pack Digest V1 #613 (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:39:29 -0600
- Seth I believe the brackets are steel, I had mine welded last year. John Lumia - 76 TR6
- /html/6pack/2002-04/msg00533.html (6,353 bytes)
- 123. Low compression (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:52:49 -0600
- I recently measured engine compression in my 6 and found cylinder pressures ranging from 75 to 110 (note that I'm a mile above sea level, so I would expect pressures to be somewhat lower anyway). I h
- /html/6pack/2002-04/msg00534.html (6,951 bytes)
- 124. crack in firewall (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 08:17:53 -0700
- Has anyone ever experienced a crack in the firewall sheet metal? Mine is a vertical crack about 4 inches long, just to the right of the brake pedal and directly behind the gas pedal. It seems to star
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00332.html (6,575 bytes)
- 125. Re:Zenith Stromberg Carb Question (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 09:29:23 -0700
- The pin sticking out of the tool should engage the recess in the piston. Take off the damper, stick the tool down the bore and rotate the outer part until it engages the piston. The grab the outer p
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00345.html (7,851 bytes)
- 126. Re:brake bleeding (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 09:50:10 -0700
- Walt, how old are the rubber brake hoses at each wheel? I had a similar problem with my 76 TR6 until I replaced these. Apparently the hoses swell over time from the brake fluid and can constrict the
- /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00282.html (7,783 bytes)
- 127. Re: U joints (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:43:34 -0700
- Another thing, when reinstalling the u joints, make sure they have a little axial play. If they are too tight the u joint will wear prematurely. One side of the circlips holding in the cups can be g
- /html/6pack/2001-11/msg00163.html (7,277 bytes)
- 128. Re: TR6 Rear hubs (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 11:07:30 -0700
- Sorry to be late in responding, just came back from a hunting trip. Anyway, my 6 has a similar whine as you describe, and it happened when I put on poly diff mounts. I was warned of this by BPNW whe
- /html/6pack/2001-11/msg00264.html (8,399 bytes)
- 129. Re: Trunnion/wishbone bushes (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 12:49:52 -0700
- I've discovered that the outer bushings on the driver's side front trunnion/wishbone connection of my '69 TR6 need to be replaced. I've ordered a bushing kit for both sides from BPNW and hope to do t
- /html/6pack/2001-10/msg00302.html (8,809 bytes)
- 130. Squeeks (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 09:10:15 -0600
- Rick, I'm not sure how to solve your squeek problem. I've used silicone spray on rubber bushings but should work equally well on poly. Perhaps you can get the car on a lift at a local garage the kind
- /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00099.html (7,349 bytes)
- 131. Re: 74 TR6 Problems (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 08:30:40 -0600
- Jeff, perhaps you could elaborate on what the symptoms are when it quits. Does it stop abruptly, or gradually lose power and die. Does it start up right away, and if so how does it run? How long do y
- /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00307.html (10,042 bytes)
- 132. Rear diff main seal (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 09:40:36 -0600
- Has anyone found a replacement for the leather pinion shaft rear diff seal (the one facing the mainshaft)? I recently replaced the seal with a new one, but these are made of leather. I plan on removi
- /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00100.html (6,809 bytes)
- 133. RE: Rear diff main seal (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 13:25:20 -0600
- Berry, thank you for your suggestions, these make sense. It's interesting that I may have an older diff in this car. Could you tell me where the Moss information can be found? I didn't see it on thei
- /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00125.html (7,624 bytes)
- 134. Re: Oil filter pressure question (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 10:26:32 -0600
- Dick, I wonder if this could be a combination of two things. Lack of a drainback valve in the filter, and also the angle of the filter. As we all know, it is difficult to have the filter pointed stra
- /html/6pack/2006-04/msg00106.html (7,582 bytes)
- 135. brake squeak (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 08:57:01 -0600
- I have what one person in the archive calls a brake "squeak", in other words a noise that occurs while the vehicle is rolling and the brakes are not applied. The archives were somewhat inconclusive a
- /html/6pack/2006-04/msg00124.html (6,406 bytes)
- 136. stuck in first gear (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2006 14:44:55 -0600
- A rather revolting thing happened last week. Somehow I was shifting between first and reverse and then I discovered the transmission was stuck in first gear. When I got home (10 miles in first gear i
- /html/6pack/2006-04/msg00188.html (7,453 bytes)
- 137. Re: J type overdrive (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 09:00:41 -0600
- Mike, I'm not sure what you mean by "straight-forward", but in any case, I believe you will need to remove the OD unit from the gearbox as the rear housing doesn't just come off. Once you remove the
- /html/6pack/2006-04/msg00202.html (7,505 bytes)
- 138. RE: Heat soak??? (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 14:16:26 -0600
- Vance, I've had what I believed to be a heat soak problem ever since I've owned my car (5 years), during which time I rebuilt the carbs with no change to this condition. After sitting around for 10-1
- /html/6pack/2006-05/msg00061.html (8,649 bytes)
- 139. Re: Idle speed revisited (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 10:21:13 -0600
- Rick, if your vacuum retard is not getting vacuum due to a leak, then the idle speed will be higher since the spec is 4 deg ATDC at idle with the vacuum advance connected. So the spark will advance a
- /html/6pack/2006-05/msg00123.html (8,782 bytes)
- 140. Re: Ignition switch boot? (score: 1)
- Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
- Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 08:40:25 -0600
- Mark, on my 76 there is a small phillips head screw on the lock housing that is used to secure the switch, no rubber I'm aware of. John - 76 TR6 Louisville, CO I'm working on this '74 and I would swe
- /html/6pack/2006-05/msg00243.html (6,771 bytes)
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